Small size big experience

There are over 227 inhabited Greek islands spread over 4500 miles. That’s a lot of destinations to consider. Kos has long been a favoured destination for travellers looking for a Greek island getaway.

Kos is part of the Dodecanese islands and is the second most visited island after Rhodes. Due to its southerly location, it gets great temperatures throughout the year.

Although plenty of people will visit for its favourable climate and beaches. Kos offers much more for the visitor to discover. The island offers many historical landmarks that are a result of the various different cultures that have influenced it throughout its history.

Ancient Greeks, Romans, Venetians, Medieval Knights and Ottomans have all contributed to its 5000 years of civilisation. A journey of discovery is well in order when visiting this delightful island.

Although it’s not all ancient ruins. Kos boasts some fabulous beaches, the warm waters of the Aegean Sea surrounding the island and over 70 miles of coastline to discover. The mountains that make up the interior of the island are well worth visiting.

There is also a lot of farming on the island, expect some flavour-packed local produce from olives, lemons, honey, cheese, wine, breads and an abundance of seafood. Kos is certainly a place to enjoy the local cuisine from tavernas, street vendors and purchasing from farm shops or local markets there will be endless opportunities to enjoy good quality local produce.

Kos Town

Built around its harbour in which the town fans out. Whether looking for history, sightseeing, nightlife or beaches Kos Town Kos Town won’t disappoint.

Kos Town is the capital of the island and along with Rhodes Town is one of the main hubs in the Dodecanese islands.

Kos Town is a popular tourist destination and is an enjoyable place to visit with plenty to see. The town is much more than just a functional administrative centre. There are a few intriguing sights including ancient ruins and a small old town.

Kos Town has been an important town since the time of the Ancient Greeks, so there are centuries of history here. Unfortunately, not all of it has survived due to numerous earthquakes and invasions so it’s not as impressively reserved as Rhodes Town.

However, there are still enough points of interest spanning all the invading empires Ancient Greeks, Romans, Byzantine, Venetian, Crusaders and Ottoman, which occupied our interest for a day or two.

The harbour is one of Kos Town’s key attractions. It’s been a strategic asset for centuries. Today it is packed with tourist boats offering excursions and some fishing boats for hire for fishing expeditions and is a hub of activity.

As it was lunchtime the waterfront was the perfect location to enjoy an alfresco lunch. The great thing about Kos Town is there are plenty of opportunities to enjoy delicious Greek cuisine

The main central streets especially running of the harbour can be a bit busy, however a short walk off these main streets we discover more genteel surroundings, lush green alleyways and a relaxing atmosphere, to view all the different architectural styles of the countless civilizations which have occupied Kos over the years.

Although small in size as a first-time visitor I was surprised by how much there was to see in such a compact town of 19,000 people. The significant sightseeing opportunities are a clear reflection of its long history.

Kos Town by night

Kos Town can be quiet by day but certainly comes alive at night. Particularly on the harbourfront. Whether looking to get the drinks flowing and party till the early hours or like myself looking for a more relaxed evening enjoyment of a nice meal and a cocktail. Kos Town will have all the bases covered.

Just off the harbourfront, we came across the white steps unsurprisingly not hard to find as they are white. Nothing especially impressive about them but it’s a popular picture location and it does add some appeal to the area.

A particular favourite of mine was Kos Old Town. It’s not a large area a few streets running north to south. Starting at Freedom Square and ending at Diagores Square. The area is fully pedestrianised.

It’s a delightful location to enjoy an alfresco meal. An eclectic mix of Byzantine and Ottoman architecture blended with more modern architecture. Eating out here is a very pleasant experience in tasteful restaurants with prices that won’t break the bank.

After all that mouthwatering Greek cuisine time to take a stroll around the picturesque Old Town for a spot of retail therapy looking at the elegant shops with their stylish displays. It’s a perfect location for a low-key nighttime experience.

Persisting with the low-key theme, after an evening in Kos Town. Time to finish the evening with a drink back in the casual ambience of our hotel

Kos Town Beachside

Although not my primary reason for visiting, Kos had a vast array of beaches to choose from. Kos has a reputation for being a premier beach destination, although I wouldn’t go as far as to call it a Mediterranean oasis the beaches were idyllic and relaxing places to visit.

We were staying at a hotel 2.5 miles from Kos Town the beach there is called Lambi. The long beach stretches for 1 mile with plenty of sunbeds and umbrellas and a few tavernas and bars, especially at the northern end closer to Kos Town.

It’s a sand and shingle mix and despite only being 2.5 miles from the centre of Kos Town, where you get all the hustle and bustle, Lambi Beach was far enough away to be a very peaceful location giving us the best of both worlds.

The further south you go the quieter the beach becomes. Many of the larger hotels are situated here and becoming more frequent as you get further away from Kos Town. There is a cycle path which runs adjacent to the beach which is also used by joggers and walkers and takes you into the centre of Kos Town.

Zia

A small village on the slopes of Mount Dikiaos, best known for its impressive sunsets. It doesn’t stop there, for nature lovers the well-kept National Park of Zia is a must.

The village is situated 16 kilometres from Kos Town so is in theory easily accessible. However public transport is very unreliable and taxis are not plentiful on the island.

Leaving two options to hire a car or book a transfer with a local company that runs trips daily and is a very low-cost alternative we choose the latter.

The village is very pretty with its cobbled streets, lined with charming shops and restaurants, nestled amongst lush green forests it’s an interesting visit in its own right. But what sets Zia apart from other mountain villages is its sensational views at sunset.

Although it’s a very busy location and can be somewhat of a tourist trap. This was soon forgotten as the sun dipped below the horizon, and the entire island of Kos appeared to bask in a warm golden glow. I might appear to sound a bit pretentious but this was a precious moment and the highlight of my visit to Zia.

Zia is a fantastic location with a mix of stunning viewpoints and friendly locals. An abundance of mouth-watering restaurants to choose from some with fantastic vistas for sunsets (although booking is advised). This is the perfect location to indulge in local flavours and authentic Greek cuisine.

Kardamina

A popular resort lying 30 kilometres southwest of Kos Town

Kardamina is well-developed in all aspects, with integrated infrastructure. Lots of accommodations and tourist amenities. Despite all this resort-like development, Kardamina just about retains its traditional charm.

However, without doubt, its greatest attraction is all-natural. A 2-mile stretch of soft golden sand. If you just want to visit Kos for the beach and nightlife experience then this resort is definitely you’re first choice,

There is a small Marina at Kardamina with regular ferries to Nisyros and other outlining islands. This was the reason for our short visit to Kardamina. Definitely worth a visit and totally different vibe to Kos Town.

My last-minute rearranged trip went in a blink of an eye. A very relaxing destination and for a relatively small island there is a large spectrum of activities and events to spend your time discovering from history, culture, architecture, beaches, mountainside villages and activities on land and water to keep you busy.

A very agreeable climate with an excellent dining scene, and friendly locals. This was my first visit to Kos but most certainly not my last.

Kos is a fascinating Island but while we were visiting, we couldn’t resist the opportunity of a brief getaway to some of the nearby islands.

Kos is part of the Dodecanese Islands. What I didn’t realize is that there are 12 large islands and over 150 smaller islands within the island group. Kos is an ideal place in which to enjoy a short visit to the numerous islands of the Dodecanese.

A little bit of planning is in order as the islands are dotted all around Kos where we were staying. Nonetheless, in actuality, most boat trips will either depart from Kos Town in the north of Kos or Kardamina located on the south-central coast. We had chosen three islands to stop by during our ten-day stay.

We booked organized trips as public transport although frequent, is not very reliable and taxis are in very short supply. Organised trips are not always the most personable way to visit but when taking into consideration time and cost they offer very good value.

Nisyros Island

Nisyros Island is a very pretty location with unique volcanic terrain. It is a relatively unknown Ageaon Island and is situated near Kos. With frequent ferries departing from Kos to Nisyros, it’s not difficult to reach and is worth a visit.

Mandrakion

This is where the port is located and is the main town on the island

When we arrived at the port it was a short walk to the town, where the impressive Monastery of the Panagia Spilianas which itself is situated within the walls of a 14th-century castle impressively overlooks the town.

Once we got into the town away from the centre it was full of narrow alleys lined with flower pots and charming cobblestone squares.

A lot of the buildings are made from volcanic rock and pumice stone. The island is well-known for pumice stone and many smaller islands located off Nisyros are quarried for pumice stone which is widely used in the beauty industry. The island gets substantial payments for the rights to quarry the pumice stone.

The houses in the town are very traditional. Mainly white or multi-coloured they are two storied with wooden balconies and wooden shutters.

Away from the beachfront the pace of life here is very slow. Although Mandrakion is the capital of the island it only has a population of 600 people and probably 1000 cats. Unlike a lot of other Greek islands, tourism is very low-key and the island still feels very traditional and relatively untouched by over-commercialism.

Nisyros Volcano

Unknown to me, there is an active volcano on Nisyros, but not erupting, fortunately.

It’s a very unique volcano 🌋 to visit, as it is the only active volcano in which you can walk anywhere in the world.

After scrambling down a rocky slope we soon found ourselves in an unnatural landscape. Holes of steaming bubbling mud dot the crater floor.

The sulphuric whiff will be immediately evident and another thing to be aware of is the heat that will seep through the soles of your shoes, so appropriate footwear is essential, best not to wear any flip-flops.

The centre of the crater is fenced off and there are some small fumaroles, rough openings with steam coming out of them.

Beneath the volcanic surface runs a hydrothermal system which results in hot springs gushing at some places around the Nisyros coast.

The visit was very enjoyable, having seen a few volcanoes previously around the world my visit here certainly didn’t disappoint. If you only had one place to visit while visiting Kos I would certainly suggest this one. There is a very nice cafe there and the prices were very reasonable.

Nikia

A traditional mountain village. Built on the edge of a crater, gazing at the Aegean Sea on one side and the craters of a volcano on the other side.

Because of the panoramic views of the crater from the village it has become something of a tourist hotspot. This once-sleepy mountain village is now a hub of activity.

The main square in Nikia is one of the most photographed spots on Niyros and is regarded as one of the most picturesque squares in the Aegean.

You will discover two tavernas in the square where you can sit down and have a drink and marvel at the wonderful location. It’s very traditional and is somewhat more secluded than the coast. Although it can get very busy.

At the square, you will find a beautiful church, The Church of the Assumption of The Virgin Mary, the church is unusual, as the majority of Greeks are Orthodox, not Catholic, however, some outlying islands were settled by the Venetians. This made sense to me now as Nikia did have the feel of an Italian rural village.

Walking around the village we found some interesting architecture. Whitewashed houses with single-tiled roofs brightly coloured doors and pebbled courtyards. Then in the blink of an eye, it was time to leave this remarkable village and get back to the port at Mandrikon.

I had never heard of Nisyros before my visit to Kos. It will not be an island I will forget in a hurry. I would have liked to have stayed longer but couldn’t miss the last ferry back to Kos.

Kalymnos Island

Kalymnos sits very close to the Turkish mainland and is known for its rocky natural landscape.

The island is part of the Dodecanese islands and boasts a long tradition of sponge diving in addition to its laid-back vibe and stunning natural scenery.

The island is rather remote and we arrived by boat, surprisingly there is an airport on the island. Kalymnos is a popular place for Greeks from the mainland who appreciate its tranquillity and its classy but simplistic vibe.

We arrived at the lovely little village of Vathy. It’s situated in the most fertile part of the island where you will find unsurprisingly the land has been cultivated and many cash crops grown particularly lemons.

In the village, we found a few restaurants all overlooking the village square with views of the harbour. It’s a great location to relax and enjoy a drink. You will not be rushed by the pace of life here it’s very relaxed.

It’s well worth a walk around the village we were able to see several sites close by including the Monastery of the Virgin, Castle ruins and early Byzantine churches.

The island is known for its herd of wild goats 🐐, we didn’t see any goats on the island however like lots of the Dodecanese islands there were lots of cats. Being cat lovers ourselves they seemed to have a sense of this and in fairness to the local people the cats are generally well-looked after.

Pserimos

Another Dodecanese Island Pserimos is situated between Kos and Kalymnos so an excellent stop for a spot of island hoppinging.

Don’t expect to find a bustling resort at the last census the island had a population of 81. Not surprisingly there is only one village on the island where you will find a couple of shops, tavernas and a few rooms to rent.

Although, you wouldn’t get much tranquillity in the summer months as it’s a popular excursion from nearby Kos. We visited in the beginning of October and it was more akin to a secluded island.

At the village of Avlaki, we found a fetching long stretch of golden sand and crystal-clear water. Undoubtedly worth a swim here and there are trees offering shade from the sun.

Looking for sun, sea and tranquillity? then we certainly came to the right place. Getting away from the crowds and busier resorts this is an excellent location for a calming time.

Looking for a place to eat and drink is very straightforward as the only establishments are all found at Avlaki on the beachfront. A terrific place for lunch or to enjoy a refreshing drink.

The island is very diminutive only 15 kilometres so don’t come expecting a lavish resort-style island. What you will find is a very relaxing authentic destination where the best thing to do is swim, relax and have a pleasurable lunch in a pleasant place. Just remember to get your ferry back to Civilization.

Castlesardo is one of Sardinia’s and indeed Italy’s most picturesque villages. The town sits on a large rocky promontory that juts out into the Mediterranean Sea.

Having decided to hire a car for a few days, our first destination is Castlesardo. A very picturesque historic town on the northwest coast of Sardinia about 60 miles from our base Costa Smeralda.

It took us about 90 minutes to get there through the Sardinian hinterland. The roads are not great, very twisty with some bad bends 🫣 but we arrived safely at Castlesardo. Parking was free as we were outside of the town.

It was about 15 minutes walk into Castlesardo. The walk is definitely worth it as the view of the castle and old town are amazing. This is definitely the location if you want some iconic pictures of Castlesardo.

We had a casual stroll through the town making our way up the steep incline to the castle. The new town is a drab affair if I am being honest however as we made our way up to the old town and castle things started to become decidedly more interesting.

We visited midweek in June so the town wasn’t packed with visitors giving us a real feel for what life is like in a town that had stood for nearly a millennium. It is an amazing place to discover on foot however a level of fitness is needed as you negotiate the steep inclines. There are Tuk Tuk tours available if you prefer an alternative option.

Doria Castle

At the top, we visited the castle which cost €5 admission. The castle was built by the Doria family and has now been converted into a museum with some exhibits about basket weaving which the area is renowned for. It was pretty uneventful, to be honest unless you like basket weaving then it will be one of the best museums you have visited.

Once outside we got to the best bit of the castle, the terrace situated amongst the battlements which gives fantastic views over the town, along the coast and along the Gulf of Asenira. The views from the castle are fabulous and worth the cost of admission just for this.

After visiting the castle it was time to discover the old town. It was worth it, exploring a labyrinth of lanes and alleyways walking up and down the slopes of this Medieval citadel. With endless steps we found tall narrow houses and stoned paved streets.

A typical scene within Italy and Sardinia is no different in this respect. We found restaurants and cafes with tables set up among the stairways and alleys in fact anywhere with an open space you will see the opportunity to engage in some alfresco dining.

Castlesardo cathedral is in the heart of the old town. The present structure dates back to its reconstruction in 1597 and is a mixture of Catalan, Gothic and Renaissance elements and overlooks the sea.

The citadel walls were also very impressive with the nearby citadel now covered with blocks of colourful houses. The old town offers a very enchanting vision, everywhere we looked from any prospective gave us a picture-perfect setting.

This very charming town offers up its hidden treasures as we continue to explore the historic lanes that offer an ancient and authentic insight into the medieval side of the island

It’s very difficult not to be impressed by the magnificent ancient architecture which we viewed throughout the town, castles and fortresses. They were all built around the same time as the origin of the town

Another highlight of visiting this charming town is the local food. Castlesardo has a reputation of being one of the best places to sample Sardinian gastronomy.

The choices are endless at the top and you will find many fancy restaurants with panoramic views. For a more authentic experience dine in one of the many restaurants situated in the heart of the old town. The food was delicious and prices were very reasonable less than we paid in Costa Smeralda.

Another chance of a majestic view of Castlesardo as we go back to the car park on the outskirts of town on what has been a very captivating visit.

It doesn’t feel like the Mediterranean here. It feels like the Caribbean

The Maddalena Archipelago to give its official title. A group of sixty islands situated in the Strait of Bonifacio between Corsica and Sardinia. It became a National Park in 1994 and has been shortlisted to become a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Before I visited Sardinia, I had never heard of the Maddalena Islands. There is a good reason for this as they have only recently started to become a popular location. They have some of the most beautiful beaches in Italy 🇮🇹 and some of the cleanest clear water.

The La Maddelena islands are commonly publicised, as a quiet place of turquoise lagoons, deserted islands and some of the most beautiful beaches in Sardinia. If the reality matched the online portrayal of this location it was worth a visit.

With plenty of ferries operating to the islands and regular boat trips available, it’s not a difficult location to get to and explore. On the main inhabited island La Maddalena, you can even take your car on the ferry.

We decided on a day’s boat trip from Baja Sardina on the Costa Smeralda, as this was the most convenient and cost-effective option for us, rather than having to get to a ferry terminal as public transportation is not really a viable option.

Isola di La Maddalena

Our first stop was Maddalena Island. Which is the largest and the only island which has a permanent population. It will be the only island with proper infrastructure, with shops, cafes, and hotels.

After a short 20 minutes boat ride from Baja Sardina, we arrived at Maddalena Island. It wasn’t what I had initially envisaged. There we docked at the small port of Cala Gavetta. The deep blue waters and colourful buildings were certainly pleasing to the eye.

Once off the boat, we were able to explore the town after first navigating the surprisingly busy port. There are lots to see and do but unfortunately for us time was limited and we decided to explore the town. Perhaps an overnight stay wouldn’t have been such a bad option after all.

Once past the main square, we entered the old town. Here we discovered narrow streets and traditional alleys. There are lots of cafes and shops within the old town where you can enjoy a coffee, ice cream or a delicious pastry, luckily for my waistline, I was still full from breakfast.

For such a small place there is lots to do. There is a Baroque church of Santa Marina of Maddelena, Sant Andrea Fort and there is even a small museum to visit.

We had an interesting visit on this island. I just wished we had more time and booked a hotel stay, as there was plenty to see and do and that’s without factoring in the beautiful beaches. All on an island of 20 Square kilometres, but it was time to get back on the boat and visit another island.

Islola di Spargi

An uninhibited round island, full of granite rock with little shade. Doesn’t sound that great but appearances can be very deceptive, this is certainly a very captivating location.

Our next stop was the beautiful island of Spargi. I couldn’t believe the colour of the sea. Different shades of turquoise blue and emerald with crystalline waters, white sand, rocks and vegetation surrounding it.

It lies west of Maddelena Island. It is necklaced by sandy coves and inlets. With 11 kilometres of coastline, it’s the third largest island in the archipelago and is uninhabited.

It was very different to Maddalena Island. Spargi is very often described as the jewel within the Maddelena Islands and I would not disagree with that. The white beaches seemed to have stood still intact and uncontaminated by the modern world

It’s the perfect location to have a swim and satisfy the senses by caressing pristine white sand as you enter the crystal-clear water

On Spargi there is a wild beauty of granite rocks with high and jagged coast, intertwined with perfectly formed beaches which put a lot of Caribbean beaches to shame.

There was certainly a lot of natural wonderment to see at Spargi. A short stay really didn’t do it justice. However, it was still an unforgettable experience relaxing in one of the beautiful bays on this island, with views I will find very difficult to forget.

Isola di Santa Maria

Our final stop for the day was Santa Maria Island. It differs completely from Spargi island as it’s not made of granite. It has a lush green appearance. It can only be reached by boat.

Small and green Santa Maria is not strictly uninhabited as a few houses were built before it had strict planning restrictions imposed by the local government due to its ecological importance and its UNESCO status.

It was first settled by Benedictine monks who were escaping from Corsica and seeking refuge on the island. Being a UNESCO-protected area with lush vegetation it is an important location for wildlife and it’s renowned for having mesmerizing seascapes.

The most popular beach is Grande Cala di Santa Maria, which is also the nearest to where the boats dock. It doesn’t have the dramatic impact of the beaches on Spargi island but is still a very pretty beach, its only downside is that it’s very busy.

Nonetheless, the water is still very clear. The warm sea is unbelievably transparent due to the slowly sloping seabed creating a large natural pool. The vibrancy of colours which can range from light blue to turquoise we’re certainly an extraordinarily beautiful sight. A unique natural spectacle.

All too soon our island-hopping adventure come to an end. It was time to get back on the boat and back to Costa Smeralda which is only 20 minutes away.

On the way back there was still one more treat in store for us. The Porto Della Madonna is a natural lagoon enclosed by the islands. The name Porto Della Madonna derives from the intensity of the blue sea and the incredible transparency of the waters.

Medellin may well be Colombia’s capital of cool with its cultural experiences, vibrancy and nightlife. However it is also a great base to discover all this region has to offer. There are lots of beautiful locations within a short distance from Medellin showcasing Colombia’s one-of-a-kind culture and natural beauty.

Our next adventure takes us to the area of Eastern Antioquia, situated to the southwest of Medellin. The picturesque Anitoquian countryside has no shortage of attractions in which to engross us. Starting with the colourful town of Guatape where I found many colourful houses and the nearby El Penon de Guatape a large rock which dominates the area.

The region is also famous for its flower cultivation with many flower farms in the area. Colombia is the second biggest exporter of flowers, only the Netherlands exports more. We visited Saint Elena which is the birthplace of the Colombian flower industry and is just outside of Medellin.

The area is naturally captivating being situated within the Andean Mountain range. We discovered lush national parks, natural wonders, colonial towns and beautiful lakes, where we enjoyed some time on the water.

A different landscape and pace of life await. There is so much to discover in so little time. Some locations were familiar to me, others were unbeknown to me. All great locations to visit and explore. Colombia was certainly a land of contrasting landscapes, peoples and cultures.

El Penol de Guatape

Not too far from Medellin (80 kilometres in fact) is the pretty town of Guatape and the famous granite rock which overlooks the town.

The rock itself is quite a contentious issue. Due to its cultural-historical significance and its value as an iconic tourist location in Colombia, there has been long-disputed ownership of the rock between the towns of Guatape and Penol. This can be seen in the name as it is known as The Rock of Gutatape and The Stone of En Penol.

A few facts about the rock itself. It is known as an inselberg, which is a lone prominent rock in a mostly flat landscape. It is ten million tonnes in weight, is over 65 million years old, stands 200 meters in height and has great cultural significance to the local indigenous community.

We arrived early as this is one of the most popular things to do in the area. At the bottom of the rock, we found lots of souvenir shops, cafes and food vendors. It was certainly a hive of activity. At the top of the rock, there will be fantastic vistas of the valley and Lake Guatape, as well as more souvenir shops, cafes and food vendors. To do this however we had to negotiate the 675 steps (740 steps if you include the tower) which gets you to the summit of the rock.

Climbing the rock is like scaling 45 flights of stairs so I am told. It took us about 15 minutes although others in our group of 8 took about 25 minutes. Regardless of the time it’s achievable for most people with some level of fitness. The stairs are one way up and another way down, so this helps with the flow of people and eases bottlenecks. The new stairs were constructed by the Colombian government in 2006, prior to this there was only one staircase up and down the rock.

At the top of the rock, we were rewarded with stunning 360-degree panoramic views of the entire countryside. To get to this you will have to walk up a small spiral staircase which takes you to the tower which is on top of the rock. This is the only time when people had to walk up and down the stairs at the same time and was very congested.

Luckily for us, the day was clear and we were able to see for miles and miles in every direction. To the south we had a beautiful green landscape with rolling hills and picturesque villages dotting the landscape

To the north, the topography was different, we had views of Lake Guatape. Surprisingly to me this is an artificial lake which has been created to harness the natural environment to produce cleaner electricity.

It’s well worth spending some time at the top to enjoy the stunning views and location. We spent about 45 minutes there. Then we started our descent back down the other stairs to the bottom.

Guatape

Guatape is one of the most colourful towns in Colombia. It is 49 miles from Medellin and is a great combo with the nearby rock which dominates the surroundings.

These colourful towns seem to be something of a phenomenon in Colombia. I visited a couple during my visit, and without a doubt my favourite one was Guatape. Although it is a very busy tourist attraction, it wasn’t too crowded to view the many vibrant street art, cobbled streets and interesting squares it had to offer.

The town is very compact and is easily accessible on foot. It was a fantastic place to wander around with my camera in hand looking at the brightly coloured buildings and trying to decipher the meanings of what has been drawn and displayed on the buildings.

Traditionally it told the story of the heritage of the family or the business which owns the building. Donkeys, sheep and chickens were quite common, although I did see a few dragons and coming from Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿, I thought there may have been a Welsh connection. 😆

Around every corner, we saw brightly coloured Zocaloas which is what the locals call them. Rumour has it families painted them on their houses for fun, and the trend caught on and the once quiet town has now become something of a tourist wonder.

One building that seemed to have not been painted in a myriad of colours is the town’s impressive Catholic Church. Although this is Guatape so it’s not totally painted white.

In the centre of town, we found the Plaza de Zocolas a pretty little square surrounded by cafes and shops, the perfect place for a coffee or buy a souvenir, or if you like people-watching this is the place to be.

Guatape is a fantastic place to visit. It’s free and you don’t need a guide. An hour or two gave us ample time to discover what has been dubbed Colombia’s most colourful town.

Penol Guatape Reservoir

A fetching waterside location is actually a man-made reservoir with a connection to one of Colombia’s most infamous countrymen Pablo Escobar.

The reservoir was formed when the Guatape River was dammed in 1972 to facilitate a hydroelectric power plant. Some houses had to be demolished as they would have been on the flooded Plains, and some were moved to Medellin as a cultural visitor attraction. Today the reservoir is lined with forested shores and spectacular villas. The area is a popular weekend retreat from Medellin.

Although by far the most famous or should I say infamous place on the lake is one of Pablo Escobar’s lavish holiday homes, La Manuela, which now stands derelict beside the waterside. The site covered over 20 acres, with every amenity imaginable including a helipad and seaplane dock which was kept secure by 120 “guards”

Its derelict appearance is no accident. It was bombed in 1993 by a vigilante group called People Persecuted by Pablo Escobar. Allegedly funded by the rival Cali cartel and other enemies of Escobar. Escobar himself was killed eight months after the bombing by the Colombian authorities.

The area has now been reclaimed by nature. You can visit although probably not recommended as there is widespread disapproval within Colombia. It is seen by many as glorifying the head of one of the world’s most violent drug cartels, fueling “narco tourism”. Best viewed from the water.

Santa Elena

The small town of Santa Elena is renowned in the area for it’s sprawling flower farms.

While in the area we were taken to one of the flower farms as part of our tour. If I am being completely honest I wasn’t particularly looking forward to the visit and just viewed it as a bit of a “time filler” while we were going to the airport in Medellin later that afternoon.

However, I couldn’t have been more wrong. We were given a very interesting tour of a flower farm by the owner, in complete traditional dress, whose enthusiasm for his flowers was very infectious

He told us that the area was rich in horticultural history. Medellin is famous throughout Colombia for its flower festivals and farmers like himself would spend the whole year growing and maintaining flowers to be displayed at the annual festivals, winning brings prestige and a big cash prize. The farm we visited had won the top prize on more than one occasion

He explained the whole cultivation process from seed to the intricate arrangements that had brought him top prizes in competitions. After all his hard work arranging his flowers in perfect order, he wanted someone to carry his display. Who was I to let him down when he asked me to carry his flowers 😆

The flowers arranged into place probably weighed about 10 kilograms, which isn’t tremendously heavy. When carrying them throughout the day for displaying and judging purposes you soon start to realise you are carrying a weight on your back.

After lunch at the flower farm, it was off to the town itself for a quick visit. Santa Elena was noticeably cooler than Medellin due to its mountain location combined with rainfall, sunshine and nutrient-rich soil, this area has perfect growing conditions for flowers.

The town truly comes to life in the summer with the annual flower festivals. Starting in the town over 500 farmers participate in parades, they will walk down the mountainside to Medellin which is 10 kilometres away. Entrants come far and wide and the festival is world-renowned within the horticultural community. Medellin and the surrounding area were certainly very intriguing places to explore.

The next part of my Colombian adventure takes me to the city of Medellin, the second biggest city in Colombia.

The city was much maligned in the 1980s and 1990s. It was closely associated with the Medellin Cartel and Pablo Escobar. It was infamously dangerous, it was even known as the most dangerous city in the world. However Medellin today is a totally different city and is one of the safest cities in South America.

Medellin for me was a fantastic city to visit. My first glimpse driving from the airport had me in awe. Its skyline seems to stretch to the heavens above, with imposing high-rise apartments and office buildings set against the natural backdrop. The city lies within the Aburra Valley at an elevation of 4900 feet (1500 meters) above sea level. The city is built within the valley and surrounded on either side by majestic mountains.

The city is relatively new, the architecture has a decidedly modern feel, this appears to go hand in hand with the open mindset of residents and the progressiveness of local government. Being known as the world’s murder capital in the 1990s, Medellin has pioneered innovative forms of city planning and management. Medellin has been acclaimed as one of the world’s most innovative cities.

One of Medellin’s key elements was to link poorer outlining districts to the city centre by creating an innovative transport infrastructure. This was done with strong support from local communities, businesses and local councils. Doing this has enabled communities to a culture-led rejuvenation providing employment opportunities for local people.

That is not to say that Medellin is not a city without its problems. The pandemic greatly affected the region. Colombia has one of the highest poverty rates in Latin America, and the Venezuelan refugee crisis has introduced 1.75 million Venezuelans to Colombia many of who cannot work legally and live in extreme poverty. These factors have seen crime rates increase albeit nowhere near the level of the 1990s.

Is Medellin still a dangerous place? Take a cue from the locals who have a saying “Na dar papaya” roughly translated this means don’t put yourself in a position to be taken advantage of and you should be fine. I exercised caution in certain areas and I never felt unsafe in any locations I visited.

It is generally a very safe city to visit. Its beautiful weather, modern architecture, cultural attractions and efficient infrastructure will certainly reward you. Medellin packs a punch of a city twice its size and it certainly gave me an incredible experience.

Botero Plaza

One of Medellin’s most traditional and iconic locations.

The busy square is situated in the centre of the old town and it is one of Medellin’s most popular and visited locations. In fact, it doubles up as a park which is also an open-air museum with its 23 bronze sculptures.

It is a hive of activity where you will find many vendors selling everything imaginable. They are all very persistent, even somewhat annoying, something you don’t really experience too much of in Colombia. This is one location I would be vigilant with your belongings as it’s an area which is popular for pickpockets and petty theft.

Botero Plaza is located in what is an otherwise rundown area of the city. The sculptures are another example of Medellin’s ability to transform locations that would once be perceived as economically unviable into places of learning, culture and entertainment.

Botero Plaza is home to 23 large bronze sculptures. They have all been sculpted by Fernando Botero one of South America’s most famous artists and a Medellin native. He has an instantly recognisable style that is popular across the globe, his work can be found on the Champs-Elysees Paris, Park Avenue New York and numerous locations within Colombia.

How do you describe Botero’s sculptures? Full figured, big boned, voluptuous, chubby and dare I say the F word fat. Whatever your opinion there is no doubting they are certainly larger than life and that Botero certainly had a unique prospective of his subject matter.

The world-renowned Colombian artist kindly gifted these bronze sculptures to his home city of Medellin so they can be admired in their full big brazen beauty. From the sensual to just outrageously unusual.

The sculptures come in many different forms buxom ladies, smartly dressed men in suits, Adam and Eve, Horses, and dogs. There is an abundance of unique sculptures to be photographed alongside.

Although my personal favourite was the rather large cat which seemed very cartoonish in appearance, it reminded me very much of my tomcat who himself is somewhat large and larger than life in personality.

Commune 13

At one time it was Medellin’s most notorious area controlled by drug cartels, now one of the city’s most colourful neighbourhoods and cultural hubs.

In the not-so-distant past, Commune 13 was the most dangerous area in what was the world’s most dangerous city. Tourists wouldn’t dare set foot in there, they had no reason to.

It is a very different story now. Over the last decade, Commune 13 has undergone a complete transformation. The area is no longer known for gang violence, police raids, drug trafficking and cartels.

These days Commune 13 is more readily associated with street art, street performances and walking tours. Numerous people, myself included visited to experience first-hand the transformation and how Commune 13 has become a symbol of Medellin and Colombia’s social transformation.

It was one of the most vibrant and interesting places I visited while in Medellin. It is a celebration of a community turning itself around. Not to be associated with “Narco tourism” which although popular is deeply offensive to locals many of who lived through the horrors of the 1980s and 1990s.

Most people in Commune 13 and Medellin as a whole are choosing to look forward and not back to the dark days of the past. Be sensitive and respectful, best to leave that Pablo Escobar t-shirt back at home.

The one thing that there is no denying is the quality of the street art which the area is renowned for. Not only does it look fantastic and gives a perfect background for selfies and Instagram posts, but there is also a political and social resonance to them.

There are numerous large-scale murals throughout the area, many of which can be found near stairs or escalators. Any and every area can be used as a canvas. Much like murals in Belfast, these murals memorialise the past and express hope for the future. Unlike Belfast, the murals are not divisive to different sections of the community.

Artwork doesn’t stop in public places. This bar was full of artwork from a well-renowned graffiti artist who now owns this bar. You will find plenty of cafes and restaurants to stop at. There are several small galleries and market stalls in the area

This transformation would have not been possible without the new transport infrastructure. Including a cable car system and six outdoor escalators. This has made life a lot easier for local residents and opened the area for tourists like never before

The outdoor escalators were first introduced in 2011 to regenerate the area with the rest of the city. It had a monumental effect and greatly enhanced the lives of residents with better accessibility. Riding an escalator was a surprising must-do at Commune 13 for me.

Nutibara Hill (Pueblito Paisa)

A replica turn-of-the-century Antioquian town situated on a high hill in the centre of Medellin. Where you can experience some Antioquian culture and architecture.

If I am being honest these places are not usually my thing, but we arrived early in the morning and our hotel was not ready. Being very tired and this being closely situated we decided this was a nice place for a leisurely lunch while waiting to check into our hotel.

Something that I thought was going to be a bit of a tourist trap turned into an engaging few hours. The history was very interesting. Most of the materials for the village were reclaimed from a real village that was demolished to make way for a hydroelectric plant in the 1970s.

Architect Julian Sierra Mejia built the village using these materials including much of the impressive church rebuilt there. Puebilito Paisa officially opened in 1978 and was renovated in 2021. As well as the church there is a large courtyard with a fountain overlooked by two rows of coloured houses with balconies.

There are numerous restaurants to be found at the location. There are food carts, a small food court and traditional restaurants to choose from. We choose a traditional restaurant with seating on a veranda overlooking Medellin. Fantastic views and a relaxing atmosphere to enjoy our lunch.

It was a good opportunity to sample some of the region’s traditional specialities. My personal favourite which I ate on a few occasions was the Antiquian heart attack on a plate, babdeja paisa, a dish which is like a fully cooked breakfast on steroids.

Yet, perhaps the best reason to make the trip up the hill is to see the magnificent views on offer, due to its elevated vantage point in the middle of the Aburra Valley, Nutibara Hill is one of the highest points within the city limits.

We got amazing views of Medellin’s sprawling barrios and high-rise buildings the city encased within the valley. The hill is part of a conservation zone and covers an area of over 80 acres in the middle of an urban setting. It is popular with walkers and nature lovers due to its naturalistic setting. It is home to a sculpture park.

You really feel as if you have escaped the city but are actually still in the heart of the metropolis giving 360-degree views of Medellin. For me, this was the best aspect of the place as the vistas here were spectacular.

Pablo Escobar’s grave

I don’t have to go into much detail about Pablo Escobar. Medellin’s most infamous son and leader of the Medellin Cartel.

I am not glorifying Escobar in any way, however, he is part of Medellin’s history. However, Medellin is much more than a “narco” tourist destination. To this day Pablo Escobar is a deeply controversial figure that can divide opinions, although he did some good in poor communities, his legacy of murder, bribery, kidnapping, racketeering and drug trafficking can never be justified for his good deeds, although a robin Hood image that he cultivated still holds resonance to this day for some.

We visited Pablo Escobar’s grave which is situated in Itagui where Escobar grew up. The Jardines Montesacro cemetery is a picturesque location and Escobar is buried in a family gravesite. The grave is the strangely serene resting place for a man whose actions caused so much terror and death and who once supplied 70% of the world’s cocaine.

El Poblado

One of Medellin’s most exclusive suburbs. It is nicknamed the big barrio as it is Medellin’s biggest commune in area ( 9 sq miles to be precise).

Not only is it the biggest commune it is also an important tourist area where many boutique and luxury hotels are located as well as bars, restaurants shopping malls and parks. Staying in this area in a high-rise hotel gave excellent views of the area which is full of modern buildings. It was a very central location for all our evening activities.

This upmarket area could feel like California or Florida with its plethora of shopping malls which were absolutely gigantic. The Sant Fe Mall situated next to our hotel had five levels and a skating rink, which was a bit surreal in 25-degree temperatures.

Transportation in Medellin

Travelling around on Medellin’s acclaimed public transport system.

Medellin had spent years developing an integrated transport system, whose many components have garnered worldwide acclaim. With modern trams, a new metro system, a gondola system and good old-fashioned buses.

Conventional transport like buses aren’t well matched to densely populated areas in mountainous terrain. The metro cable system has transformed daily life for the residents of Medellin, especially for those living in Medellin’s historically poor hillside communities

There are now six lines in operation and twenty stations providing residents with easy access to the city centre. The most popular cable car routes can be accessed via the railway station providing an integrated transport system. Cutting travel time from over 2 hours to less than 30 minutes to the city centre.

In fact, cable cars have become attractions in themselves. They have transformed many neighbourhoods into tourist destinations. The sweeping views that come with any cable car ride made them a must-do for us.

Medellin has become a leader in sustainable transport. The city has demonstrated the ability to reinvent itself from the past and become an innovative sustainable city of the future.

My next adventure in Colombia took me to the city of Pereira. This is officially known as the Coffee Axis. Pereira along with the rest of the area forms part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site which is known as the “Coffee Cultural Landscape of Colombia”

The area is so much more than being the centre of the Colombian coffee industry. Pereira is an influential tourist centre with many attractions within the coffee region. The most well-known of these is unquestionably Cocora Valley and the nearby town of Salento.

The Cocora Valley is famed for its giant wax palm trees 🌴 which are scattered over its captivating lush green hillsides. I discovered stunning landscapes quite unlike any other. It is truly a nature lovers’ paradise.

The nearby town of Salento is another popular location in the area with its quaint coloured houses and is one of the oldest towns in the area.

It hasn’t always been this way. The area used to be a stronghold for guerrilla fighters who had full control of the area. Salento was a place even Colombians wouldn’t visit, which obviously stopped any tourism activity.

Fortunately, as with much of Colombia, this has now changed. Any preconceptions of Coloumbia as an unsafe destination with a reputation for being a “narco-state” where violence and bloodshed are the norms is a very outdated opinion.

What you will find is an interesting vibrant country where people will warmly welcome you. Colombia is no more dangerous than any other location as long as you act sensibly.

The Coffee Region

Colombia is one of the largest coffee-producing countries in the world. Pereria is the central hub of coffee production in Colombia. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its unique landscape.

The choice of coffee plantation tours can be bewildering to say the least. You can book tours to large producers, family-run farms, tours on horseback, hiking tours, birdwatching tours and in conjunction with a trip to the Cocora Valley, so a bit of pre-planning is necessary to get the best out of your visit.

I had never visited a coffee plantation before so a full tour was the best option for me. The plantation we visited offers daily regularly scheduled tours with a guide. This can be done within a group or private tours. We had a private tour as it was included in our tour itinerary.

We had the full tour experience with our guide and lunch at the property. This needs to be booked in advance as it is a more in-depth experience and may include transport to the property. This option is more expensive than doing it independently, but it is a lot more convenient, especially if you are only staying in the area for a short time.

Our tour started with us wandering around the grounds. Our knowledgeable guide explained to us the ideal growing conditions that make this area so productive for growing coffee beans.

He showed us all the different stages of growing coffee plants and the right time to pick the beans and explained how experienced coffee pickers are much sought after as there is a big shortage of skilled labour in the area.

We were given a tour of the grounds and the plantation house, which is now a hotel and restaurant as the coffee farm is diversifying its income. Various birds and animals wander around the property.

We were taken to where the coffee beans are dried out and how they divide the beans for quality. Certain coloured beans are more high quality than others.

What really surprised me was the beans of a lower quality are kept in Colombia where they are roasted and sold. It now made sense to me as the coffee I had tasted in Colombia was ok, nothing exceptional. Now I understand the reason why the best coffee beans are exported.

At the mill, there was evidence of this. The higher-quality beans are bagged and are ready for export to foreign markets such as North America, Europe and Japan, where they will command a much higher price as these markets are prepared to pay more for higher-quality coffee.

As our coffee plantation tour concluded, it was time to sample the end product. I don’t think asking for cream and sugar will go down that well after learning how much time and effort goes into producing the coffee that we take for granted.

Cocora Valley 🌴🌴🌴🌴

The Cocora Valley is part of the Los Nevados National Park. Incorporated into an existing National Park in 1985 by the Colombian Government. It is one of Colombia’s most visited natural attractions.

Nestled within the coffee triangle. This valley is filled with wax palms that rise over 70 meters (200 ft) in height. This is the main location of wax palms in Columbia. The wax palm tree is the national tree of Colombia

I couldn’t come to Colombia and not visit the Cocora Valley. Images of the valley are plastered everywhere on social media when searching online for Colombia. The peculiar skinny incredibly tall palm trees can be seen set against a backdrop of the glaring sun, enigmatic mist or the broad Andean mountains were instantly recognizable.

The Cocora Valley is one of the few places on earth to see them in their natural habit. The wax palms can grow up to 70 meters and hundreds of them can be seen in the valley randomly placed among the grassland towering above the grazing livestock.

How they have survived all these years is another natural wonder. Despite their impressive height the wax palm trees don’t seem to be the most robust tree. Even at the bottom, the trees are thin enough to nearly hug yourself around them, yet the tree feels as hard as concrete.

The wax palm trees certainly give you a view of something uncommon and arresting. The valley is 1800 meters above sea level, low clouds often fill the valley and the palms look as if they are scratching the bottom of the clouds.

The curious beauty of the valley is immediate. It offers a fantastic trekking experience whatever your fitness as footpaths covers various distances. From 30 minutes in-and-out trail walk to a 12-kilometre valley hike which takes 5 hours. Whatever you choose you will be able to marvel at the beautiful and mysterious landscape.

We spent about 2 hours exploring and we followed the clockwise trail. The trail starts through grasslands taking us directly to the palm trees. After this it’s a relatively easy uphill ascent.

The route then takes you up to some fantastic vantage points before making the ascent back down. These vantage points are popular stops so you won’t be alone there. The route back down is steep and slippery be careful with your footing. I went sliding down the mountain on my back much to the amusement of my wife, no harm was done other than one ruined white T-shirt, fortunately, our guide kindly gave me his sweatshirt. They are certainly very thoughtful people in Colombia.

The Cocora Valley is a very popular tourist destination. Most visitors arrive from nearby Salento and come for the day, there are also extensive hiking and camping opportunities for the more adventurous. Trips are available from Pereira which is where we were based.

A ride in a Willys is a very popular way of getting there, it is an old jeep capable of transporting up to 12 people. If you are coming independently and don’t have a car this is the only way to get to the Cocora Valley other than by foot or horseback.

At the end of our tour, we met with a local ecologist. The tour company that we booked have a terrific programme where after every tour they plant a new palm tree. Sometimes I feel these are token gestures and good PR for the company. This is the only tour company that does this. I felt that their intentions are completely genuine.

A lot of these magnificent palm trees are dying. Our local guide George who has been coming to Cocora Valley for 10 years said he had sadly seen a great reduction in these palm trees. In the past, this has been due to the cultivation of trees for their wax and the land being used for agricultural purposes. More recently environmental concerns have come to the fore. They became protected by the Colombian Government in 1985.

Salento

A town of many colours. Founded in 1850 it is one of the oldest towns in the area.

If visiting the nearby Cocora Valley and being in the heart of the Coffee triangle a UNESCO World Heritage Site is not enough, there is also the pretty little town of Salento to visit, often described as one of the prettiest in Columbia.

Salento functions as a base for trips to nearby Cocora Valley and its giant wax palms. You will find many businesses offering trips, where you can jump in a Willy (the original jeep and over 60 years old)

Although it is a bit of a tourist trap, it is not without charm and there is no denying it’s a photographer’s dream. If souvenir shops are not your thing then there are many independently owned coffee shops to relax in.

Salento is a small town that is easily navigable on foot and it is worth a visit as the painted colourful houses and tropical background nestled in the Andean foothills are certainly a visual experience to enjoy.

Tejo 💥 in Salento

As it started to rain this was a perfect time to head indoors and experience a game of Tejo.

This game is widespread in Colombia, especially in this region. To me, it looked like a cross between bowling, darts and fireworks, with alcohol thrown in for good measure as it is a game that is usually played on licensed premises. Not a great combination for the uninitiated.

It is not unusual to see professional teams in cities and large towns as it is second only to football in popularity. It is played internationally in Panama, Ecuador and Venezuela although the game’s spiritual home is in Colombia.

The game involves tossing a steel ball at targets in the shape of stars loaded with gunpowder across the room. It can be played by up to six people so it is a very sociable game

Although the game looks simple, mastering it is a lot more tricky in practice as you have to hit the target full-on with the steel ball in order for the star, which is made of gunpowder to explode. You then get points which can vary from 1, 3, 6, and 9 if you hit the bullseye.

Although I didn’t win it was good fun participating in this uniquely Colombian game. Travel is all about broadening your mind and trying new experiences and playing Tejo definitely did that.

Accommodation in The Coffee Region

Accommodation options within The Coffee Region range from haciendas on coffee plantations to small hostels and boutique hotels. There are no shortage of options to choose from.

We were on a tour of Colombia and after busy days exploring all that the area has to offer, it was nice to relax in this boutique hotel. Situated within the heart of The Coffee Region and its cultural coffee landscape.

The hotel was more akin to being in a private house with its intimate, cosy and relaxing atmosphere surrounded by captivating gardens, flowers and birds

Despite the quiet, idyllic surroundings we were only less than 20 minutes from Pereira airport and centrally situated to visit all that this fascinating location has to offer. The Coffee Region and Cocora Valley certainly surpassed my expectations.

Some background to our visit

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My visit to Colombia certainly enlightened me about its many natural treasures. None more so than Tyrona National Park. Lying on Colombia’s northern Caribbean coast, it offered us a complete contrast to Colombia’s bustling cities.

Although a visit will take some advanced planning, this remote tropical paradise is not the most straightforward to visit.

Factor in the costs and time, as the park closes at 17.00 pm unless you have an overnight permit. Our eco-lodge was less than three miles away and we planned to spend two days there. One day would suffice if you just want to visit a beach, longer if you want a more in-depth visit.

Other important tips would be to arrive early as there will be queues, bring cash with you for entry payments as cards won’t be accepted and you will also need a copy of your passport to gain entry. The whole process is slow and bureaucratic but it is what it is.

A walk in the park which is certainly no walk in the park. The coast is 5 kilometres from the entrance so it is worth paying £1 for a minibus transfer which will give you more much needed time inside the park. Minibuses run regularly from the main entrance.

Time spent in the park

This coastal national park is where the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta mountains converge on the Caribbean sea. First established as a national park in 1964, its well known for its spectacular scenery and incredible biodiversity.

Despite being a popular inclusion on many itineraries to Colombia, I knew very little about Tayrona. Having visited I realise what an important ecological location Tayrona National Park is and one of Colombia’s natural treasures.

When in the park be prepared to do some walking. The park covers 58 sq mi of land and 12 sq mi of maritime area in the Caribbean sea. It is very busy with just over 500,000 visitors in 2019.

In many ways, Tayrona National Park resembles a miniature tropical paradise. Which involves hiking through a verdant jungle passing giant round boulders. Besides it’s natural beauty it’s also home to various indigenous communities and ruins of past settlements.

The park is spread over a large stretch of coast, so there is plenty to explore. We entered the park at El Zaino to get to Cabo San Juan. To get to this beach it is a 4.5-mile walk (after a 3-mile minibus transfer) through various terrain from boardwalks, steps, dirt paths, beaches, through water, over rocks and boulders. This took us about 1 hour and 50 minutes.

It is predominantly sheltered, so we weren’t walking in direct sunlight, but conditions are very humid and there are a few gradients to contend with not to mention various types of terrain. A reasonable level of fitness would be necessary to complete a hike to some of the more popular beaches. Appropriate footwear is also a must.

Allow plenty of time as there are lots to see along the way. It’s like walking in a green paradise. We got jungle vibes, tropical forests and endless palm trees. There was always something to see throughout our hike. A bit of preplanning will allow you to get the most from your visit.

In Tayrona National Park there are over 350 species of birds, condors and white eagles. There are fox dogs and even the mighty Jaguar resides here. One of South America’s apex predators.

There are in fact over 105 species of mammals, 70 types of bats, 31 reptile species, 110 different types of coral, 401 sea and river fish and more than 770 plant species. Tangible evidence that Colombia is one of the world’s most biodiverse countries, second only to Brazil.

We did get to see plenty of monkeys. There are three species of monkey in the park, the red howler, the capuchin and the cotton-top tamarin.

While Tayrona National Park is a beautiful and picturesque place, treat it with respect for the benefit of future generations. It is a sacred place for many indigenous tribes,

These tribes are the guardians of the land. indigenous people close the park three times a year, protecting the park and the ecosystems it supports, allowing the park time to rest and replenish.

Indigenous groups also perform cleansing rituals and ceremonies. This is an excellent and necessary initiative that will hopefully protect the park for future generations.

Beaches in Tayrona National Park

The combination of wild jungles, mountains and paradisical coastline makes Tayrona National Park a very unique destination. The park is famous for its beautiful untouched beaches. After all, we are on the Caribbean coast.

Cabo San Juan

Most probably the most famous beach in Tayrona National Park.

You can get to the beach from the main entrance at El Zaino, this is one of three entrances but the nearest one to our hotel. It is a 4.5-mile hike from the minibus drop-off and took us just under 2 hours with a few pictures stops on the way.

We decided to visit Cabo San Juan first, working our way back to the main entrance. As it’s the most famous and popular beach, and the furthest one away from the main entrance, this would allow us to maximise our time there and visit other beaches on another day.

Cabo San Juan is very popular as it’s a very photogenic location with its double-sided beach and when looking from the bungalow above the beaches they appear to mirror each other.

Another reason this beach is very popular is its accommodation options, camping or sleeping in a hammock it can be done here. You can swim here which you are not able to on many of the beaches within Tayrona National Park. There are also a few eating and drinking places located here. An option for a boat transfer from Santa Marta is also available.

The beach itself is in a semi-sheltered cove resulting in less exposure to currents and the large swell you will find on other beaches, there are also lifeguards in attendance, but despite this still take caution as the sea is still very unpredictable.

I had reservations about visiting the beach, not necessarily because of the location, it was absolutely stunning, but because it has become a victim of its own success becoming a tourist hotspot.

Although it was busy it wasn’t unduly crowded, we were still able to get that quintessential tropical beach experience, and it’s well worth the hike to get there. Just factor in enough time to get back because unless you are camping the park closes at 17.00 pm every day.

Arenilla

A very attractive beach situated within a cove framed by massive boulders.

A great alternative beach to the very popular Cabo San Juan. Arenellia is a very pretty beach and it’s not as busy as Cabo San Juan.

The palm trees offer plenty of shade from the sun and inviting clear water you can actually swim in. For me Arenilla was one of my favourite places in Tayrona National Park. Cabo San Juan is certainly a very beautiful beach, however Arenilla had a much more relaxed vibe and in my personal opinion equally as beautiful.

Arenilla is roughly a halfway point between Canaveral beach and Cabo San Juan, a few trails converge here and it’s a pit stop for visitors who are on horseback. So you will find a couple of restaurants located here and is the perfect spot for a drink or light lunch.

After a swim and some time spent at the beach, it was the perfect location to enjoy freshly prepared mango juice, before our hike back to the main entrance. Time was 15.00 pm more than enough time to get us back to the main entrance by 17.00 pm.

Canaveral

A very quiet beach and the closest one to the El Zaino main entrance.

Only a 1-kilometre walk from the minibus dropoff. This is often overlooked compared to other beaches within Tayrona National Park. When we visited there was hardly a soul on the very big beach.

The beach at Canaveral is very beautiful a long stretch of golden sand and azure blue water. Unfortunately, there is a downside for us, there is no shade whatsoever and swimming can be very dangerous due to treacherous offshore currents.

Canaveral Beach is a beautiful location if you want some quiet contemplation and we enjoyed our time there. An incredible location for a beachside walk where you can admire its wild rugged beauty, but if swimming or sunbathing is your thing, this isn’t going to be the beach for you.

Due to its reasonably close proximity to the main entrance and one of the few beaches with a road link, it is a popular place to stay with accommodation options other than camping available here.

Piscina

The clue is in the name. Piscina is Spanish for pool, and swimming is permitted here.

A popular beach within Tayrona National Park it’s mainly due to the fact that you can swim here, not always the case when you are at the beach at Tayrona. We didn’t stop here just took a few pictures.

Arrecifes

A beautiful beach, but a beauty which is deadly. There have been over one hundred drownings in this one location.

You feel as if you have hiked through the jungle to get here and the beach is surrounded by huge boulders. It’s a very naturalistic location where the full force of the sea can be seen as the waves violently crash onto the coast. It is a very captivating location but very brutal, best enjoyed from a safe distance.

This beach is now closed to the public. Its reputation had certainly proceeded itself and the park authorities are taking no chances with safety. This is the beach where it’s best to enjoy its beauty from afar. You will get some excellent views from the cliffs that surround the beach.

Accommodation in and around Tayrona National Park

There are a few options available, you can stay in the park where there are camping sites available to rent or even a hammock for the more adventurous.

We choose to stay outside in an ecolodge. More expensive but it gave us a more comfortable relaxed stay while exploring the area.

After a busy time discovering Colombia, it was the perfect location to relax and unwind at the end of our adventure. Its close proximity to Tayrona National Park gave us easy access to discover everything the park has to offer. It was less than 10 minutes away with a taxi transfer.

This part of my journey takes me away from the Petite Cote, in the south of the country, on a lengthy journey, to the far north of the country to visit the former capital and UNESCO World Heritage Site Saint Louis, with an overnight stay in the Lompoul Desert.

Saint Louis

Located in the far north of the country close to the Mauritanian border. At the beginning of the French Colonial Empire, it was the most important city in Senegal, if not all of French West Africa.

Known for its French colonial architecture. Saint Louis was the capital of Senegal from 1673 to 1902 and the capital of the whole of French West Africa from 1895 to 1902. It was the capital of neighbouring Mauritania from 1920 to 1957

Although our main reason for visiting Saint Louis was to see the old town on N’Bar Island a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The island is linked to the city by the Faidherbe Bridge, constructed in 1865 and designed by Gustav Eiffel who went on to build the Eiffel Tower no less.

The city of 258,000 was an important economic centre in the early years of French West Africa, but its heyday has long since passed. Although it’s still a major fishing port and has gained in popularity due to its UNESCO World Heritage Site which it achieved in 2000.

My first impressions here for me were a little mixed. The streets are dusty and narrow. There were also lots of rubbish strewn around the streets under thick layers of dust. If I was being kind it looked well-worn and in need of some love. Scratch beneath the surface and you will find a city with a rich colonial history.

The island of N’Bar is where you will find the majority of the old French Colonial buildings. They all looked a little dilapidated but this for me tells a story of the history of the buildings, documenting the rise and fall of this intriguing city.

The buildings are all colourful in Saint Louis. It’s worth the time wandering around the historic old town, where you will find many crumbling 19th-century French Colonial buildings in various states of disrepair, from total collapse, in need of renovation to being fully renovated into swanky boutique hotels.

There are a few ways to explore the old town, but I found the best way was to hire a horse and a cart. This was an hour-long tour of the island and the surrounding area, where we experienced how life is for the locals. We were able to have a different vantage point to admire the architecture above us, as well as view what was going on the street level besides us.

There are reminders all around the island of Saint Louis’s more illustrious past. This old crane in the dock would once have been constantly used in the frantic movement of goods and people,as Saint Louis was one of the main ports for the whole of French West Africa.

Saint Louis is crossed entirely by the Senegal River which from the Mauritanian border reaches the city dividing it in two and giving life to the east and west areas. The Faidherbe bridge built in 1897 connects the island to the rest of the city in mainland Africa.

Guet-Ndar

The fishing harbour and home to the fishing community in Saint Louis.

Crossing the bridge over onto the peninsula you will find the centre of the fishing industry Guet-Ndar, where you will row upon row of colourful fishing boats

Although in recent years this way of life has been under threat from two major issues, overfishing and the continual risk of flooding, both of which could have catastrophic consequences for the city and the region.

Saint Louis is vulnerable to climate change, where a sea level rise is expected to threaten the city centre and potentially damage historical parts of the city.

During our horse-drawn tour of the city, it gave an insight into the daily lives of the local people. There are similarities to Dakar which I had previously visited on this trip. Although Saint Louis was more African in look and feel than Dakar with it’s more modern buildings, financial district, shiny SUVs and grandiose buildings.

Saint Louis in contrast had a more rustic feel with its faded crumbling buildings and French Colonial architecture that tells a story of the city’s once illustrious past, where you will find horse-drawn carts rather than shiny new SUVs.

In Saint Louis, there are a lot of street vendors, as you will find in all of Senegal. They can be found in traditional markets, on the street, on the beach and by the roadside. They are characterized by their persistence, resourcefulness and ability to communicate.

Langue de Barbarie

Translated into English from French it means spit of land

The Langue de Barbarie is a 40-kilometre-long strip of sand, which stretches along the coast of Mauritania down to Senegal The land separates the ocean from the final section of the Senegal River and is Saint Louis’s most westerly suburb.

It has been formed by the mouth of the Senegal River where a small lagoon has been created. It is situated west of the old town by crossing Senegal petit bras (little arm) an offshoot of the Senegal River.

Further along, the coast once you have left the city you will find some nice beaches with soft sand and warm waters. Although there is little evidence of this in Saint Louis, where you will find washed-up rubbish on the beach and discarded fishing materials. The area is in great need of regentrification.

Overnight stay exploring the Lompoul Desert

It may not be as big as the mighty Sahara Desert. With an area of about 18 km2 located 145 kilometres south of Saint Louis.

To first get to the lodge we had to get a transfer from the nearest town Lompoul after which the desert is named. The journey takes about 20 minutes to get to the lodge, allowing the local vendors the opportunity to try and sell us some merchandise before our vehicle arrived.

It’s orange sand dunes form a similar landscape similar to those of the Sahara in neighbouring Mauritania, rather than the more tropical climate usually found in Senegal.

In recent years the area has become something of a tourist hotspot. With several lodges available to stay where the visitor can sleep in the desert amongst the sand dunes

Whichever you choose the lodges catering to tourists are of a good standard. I was told they were going to be very basic, in all honesty, it was more akin to glamping with a flushing toilet, shower and a large double bed complete with mosquito net. The only real inconvenience was no charging points for phones and tablets in the tent but points were available in the main dining tent.

The only thing to consider is that once you are at the lodge that’s it, you will have to have your evening meal and drinks at the lodge as you are in the desert. Food at our lodge was simple, traditional Senegalese cuisine which was delicious, but make sure this is included in your itinerary as they generally cater for a set number of guests.

Before our evening meal, we were treated to one of the lodge’s signature activities. Being in a desert what can that activity be? A camel ride of course.

Have previously done these camel rides on a few occasions and have come away disappointed. However, on this occasion, the experience was simply incredible to catch the various shades of the desert as the sun was setting, in all honestly was a magical experience.

After the camel rides, back to the tent to freshen up, then time to reflect on the day’s experiences. Perhaps a pre-dinner drink was in order as it will soon be dark. The drinks at the bar were very reasonable and the service was excellent. In high season there is usually a pre-dinner show with Senegalese themed music and dance.

After a delicious dinner in the dining tent with our fellow guests, the evening focal point was the open-lit fire, where we enjoyed the rest of the evening gazing up at the moon and stars which illuminate the lodge at night, we got amazing views as the sky was clear and there is no light pollution. It may have been low key but a wonderful way to finish what had been a long but very rewarding day.

All that was left to do was find our way back to the tent, a torch is highly advised, as the lodge is pitch black at night, remember your tent number as you can walk into any tent, with potentially embarrassing situations. 😊

The sleep we had was good only being disturbed by the local wildlife once, a couple of the lodge’s resident cats 🐈 fighting 😆