The pearl of the Adriatic full of history and culture with fabulous city and ocean vistas. Then we discovered some stunning islands just a short boat hop away from the city.

Dubrovnik is renowned for its breathtaking beauty and rich history with its Medieval old town surrounded by stone walls and filled with centuries-old architecture.

It is a captivating location there is no doubt, beautiful locations attract lots of visitors. Unfortunately with Dubrovnik, it is small and can struggle to cope with 10,000 visitors a day especially when cruise ships descend on the location.

Dubrovnik is a very expensive place to visit this pushes prices up and in a lot of cases pushes quality down. We were staying at nearby Cavtat where prices were noticeably less and the ambience a lot more relaxed.

That’s not to say I didn’t enjoy my time in Dubrovnik. We visited on two separate occasions, the first visit on the service bus from Cavtat, not the most glamorous mode of transport granted, but the buses run frequently and are low cost.

On our second visit, we had a water taxi from our hotel to Dubrovnik, a bit more expensive option that gave us some excellent views coming into the old town.

There are lots of things to do in Dubrovnik. Due to limited time, we decided that we would concentrate our time on discovering the City Walls and Old Town on our first day, on the second day we visited Lokrum Island and Dubrovnik cablecar. Visiting Elaphtiti Islands on a another day.

Dubrovnik City Walls

One of Dubrovnik’s most popular attractions and for good reason. We pre-booked entry tickets.

Included in our City Walls ticket was an entry to Minceta Fortress and Fort Lovrijenac. At €48 it is certainly not cheap, like most things in Dubrovnik. We entered at the Pile Gate entrance which is the main entrance point.

There are two other entry points Ploce Gate and Fort St John by the port. The walls are very busy, if you are looking to avoid the crowds early morning or early evening is best. Another tip check to see if there are any cruise ships docked in on the day you visit.

The walk around the walls took us about 1 hour with a few strategic photo stops along the way. We got a fantastic view of the famous Stradun Street and the bell tower of the Franciscan Monastery. There are some cafes if you want refreshments dotted along the walls.

We had endless photo opportunities of picturesque houses with red roofs within the old town. We also got the opportunity to glimpse into some hidden gardens and courtyards in the residential fringes of the Old Town.

On the south side of the City Walls, we came to the seaward side, where we could see sailing boats and Lokrum Island. Then as we walked around we had a fantastic view of the Old Port of Dubrovnik. Fort St John is situated here its another entry/exit point from the Old Walls and gives access to Dubrovnik’s Old Harbour, where you can get a boat to Lokrum, Elaphiti and shuttles back to our base in Cavtat.

Visiting the City Walls is definitely worth it. They are Dubrovnik’s defining feature encircling the Old Town and they are amongst one of the world’s finest preserved. The walls also gave us breathtaking panoramic views of the Old Town, the Adriatic Sea and the surrounding landscape.

If time is limited it gives you an opportunity to immerse yourself in Dubrovnik’s rich history and architectural heritage, as well as explore various historical landmarks and attractions along the way such as forts, towers and gates.

Fort Lovrijenac

Included in the City Walls ticket is the entrance to Fort Lovrijenac. This is known as Dubrovnik’s Gibraltar, perched on a high rock at the edge of the city 37 metres above sea level was certainly a very impressive sight.

The fortress defended the city from the sea and covered the western Pile Gate. It is a fantastic location to enjoy a panoramic view of Dubrovnik’s Old Town. Today it is used for summer festivals and an open-air theatre.

Fort Minceta

Another place we were able to access with our ticket was the Minceta Fort. A large circular tower with a huge battlement. It was completed in the 14 century. It is the highest point in the Old Town. Views are not great from the fort due to its fortifications and are best admired from afar to admire its power and nobility.

Dubrovnik Old Town

The heart of the city the Old Town is enclosed by the Medieval City Walls.

Dubrovnik Old Town is one of the most perfectly preserved Medieval cities in the world. For centuries it rivalled Venice as a major trading port. It was reconstructed in 1684 after a major earthquake and also after the civil war of the early 1990s.

Much of the allure of the Old Town lies in the fact that it is still a lived-in city, vibrant and bustling with locals and a few cats. Homes line the narrow streets and squares. Making the Old Town a living breathing location full of life and character.

Wondering around the Old Town away from the major monuments we found cobbled streets, ancient steps, terracotta roofs and a city that has remained unchanged over the centuries.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site the Old Town is finely preserved due to ongoing major and neat construction work. There are lots of grand landmarks to see, but discovering the hidden Old Town was just as rewarding an experience away from the crowds at a less frenetic pace.

Cable car

Connects the old town to the top of Mount Srd

This modern, fast and very orange mode of transport is one of the top draws in the city and gives fantastic views as you rise above the old town.

There has been a cable car in the city since1969 which was the first built in the Adriatic Region. Sadly this was severely damaged during the siege of Dubrovnik in 1991. This modern reincarnation underwent a £5 million renovation and was reopened in 2010.

It takes 3 and half minutes to ascend the hill travelling a distance of 778 meters and the upper station is located 405 meters above sea level. Each car carries 30 people with the two cars departing one ascending the other descending.

Once at the top, we had fantastic views of the Old Town and Lokrum island which is the main reason for getting to the summit of Mount Srd.

There is a restaurant and bar to enjoy a drink with a spectacular view. Although an enjoyable experience if I had more time I would have walked up to the summit which is free, €54 for the two of us was certainly not cheap for a return trip. Unfortunately like most things in Dubrovnik are not cheap.

Island Hopping from Dubrovnik

The historic city of Dubrovnik is surrounded by a wide variety of idyllic islands that make for great excursions and day trips by boat.

Lokrum island

A small island and nature reserve situated very close to Dubrovnikk

If the madness of Dubrovnik is all getting too much, why not catch a ferry from the Old Port in Dubrovnik and take the short 10-minute journey over to the oasis of calm which is Lokrum Island? Boats run regularly every 30 minutes to to and from Dubrovnik.

The island is a very pleasant way to spend a couple of hours. We spent the morning at Lokrum and had a nice lunch as there were a few dining options to choose from. Lokrum is largely uninhabited although it was bought by Austrian Archduke Maximilian I in 1858. Much of the botanical plant life and grand gardens stem from his ownership.

Dead Sea

Most people visit Lokrum Island for its peace and tranquillity. Although there is plenty to see, whether it’s a walk around the island, checking out a few points of interest or just spending some time relaxing by the water.

This takes me to the Dead Sea, not really like its more famous namesake in the Middle East, this is still a salt lake. Located on the southern end of the island this is a popular spot for bathing in the calm peaceful waters.

I saw lots of rocks on Lokrum Island mainly congregated along the southwest coast of the island, some are almost otherworldly and are definitely worth a look as they give the island a very dramatic appearance.

Benedictine Monastery

Initially built in the 11th century. The monastery was badly damaged in 1667 by an earthquake, parts of the monastery were rebuilt around this time. In the 18th century Maximilian of Habsburg used this as his summer residence.

Fort Royal

At the highest point of the island, we discovered Fort Royal, built by the French during their brief occupation in the 19th century and completed by the Austrians.

There were some gorgeous views from Fort Royal, taking in Dubrovnik’s Old Wall and Old Town and Mount Srd. The path up to the fort is steep and can be uneven underfoot, suitable footwear is definitely advised.

On the way down from the trial we came across excuse the pun a cross. Tritons Cross was erected in memory of sailors whose lives were lost, a very peaceful location and the cross was clearly visible from the water.

And finally, we saw plenty of wild peacocks, peahens and peachicks running freely around the island. Lokrum is well known for its resident wild peacock population.

Elaphiti Islands

These islands sit just off the coast of Dubrovnik making it an easy day trip.

The Elaphiti Islands archipelago consists of six islands. Which are situated north-west of Dubrovnik. On our boat trip, we visited three of them Kolocep, Sipan and Lopud. These three islands only have a combined population of 1000 people.

Kolocep

One the three inhabited islands. Which had been part of Dubrovnik since the 11th century.

The island is the smallest and only has a population of 300. As the smallest island, it is considered the most tranquil and has a very calm and relaxing atmosphere.

Very close to Dubrovnik so you have the best of both worlds close to the city but away from the hustle and bustle. With sandy and pebble stone beaches to enjoy the peacefulness of the island.

The island is also car-free so it’s an ideal place to enjoy leisurely walks “although some of the trails didn’t seem that leisurely” They go through the dense pine forests and along the coast. The trails crisscross the island and are signposted.

The island has some fantastic secluded coves and sandy bays. Where we found golden beaches and crystal clear waters, which makes the island popular for swimming and snorkelling.

Sipan

Sipan is the largest of the Elaphiti islands.

There are cars on this island but it is still fairly quiet. We docked on the southeastern side at the village of Sudurad. Ferries operate daily as well as numerous boat tours.

The population of Sipan is just under 500 inhabitants. It was my favourite island stunningly beautiful with a laid-back rustic charm. With crystal-clear waters, the island is famous for its olive production, with the largest concentration of olive trees relative to its size and population. Sipan is very different to Kolocep with its palm trees rather than pine forests.

Sipan for such a small island is home to several historic sights and monuments, an ideal location for history buffs, with as many as 30 churches, many of which are in ruins dating back centuries.

In Sudurad there is a very prominent building, the large fortified Skocibuha Villa and Tower which was built in the 16th century.

The island was a favourite with Dubrivnik’s aristocracy which might explain the amount of faded grandiose buildings that was dotted around the town. It seems to have held on to the sprit of the past where time has seen to have stood still.

The pretty harbour is the focal point of the village and most of the restaurants are situated here offering simple and tasteful meals, its an excellent spot to enjoy an ice cream or drink and watch the world go buy quietly and very slowly.

Lopud

Just 14 kilometres from Dubrovnik. Conveniently connected with a daily ferry from Dubrovnik as well as charter boats.

Once the domain of the Dubrovnik aristocracy. Today it has become popular with visitors from much further afield

Lopud home to only 200 people is considered the most picturesque of the three islands. It only has one village also called Lopud, which curls around the bay, with little side roads that climb up the hillside, don’t worry about cars as it is another car-free island.

Lopud did have a bit more going on there, with a few bars, restaurants, shops and a couple of hotels. The village is very charming with lots of stone houses surrounded by exotic gardens. With a little beach in the town, it’s a very relaxed location.

All along the bay is a promenade which was full of activity as the promenade adjoins narrow sandy beaches as well as the waterside bars and restaurants. Just off the promenade is shady Dordic Mayneri Park laid out in the 19th century which has some botanical plants from around the world.

Overlooking the village the 30m high bell tower of Lopud’s 15th-century Franciscan Monestary. It was abandoned in 1808 and recently restored to its former glory.

After visiting Kolocep, Sipan and Lolud three islands of the Elaphiti Archipelago, which had been a fascinating and relaxing day, it was back to the boat for our transfer back to Cavtat.

The capital of India and one of the oldest existing cities in the world with great historical importance. From the Mughal empires, the British Raj era through to the contemporary cosmopolitan city it has become today.

Delhi is a city that can undoubtedly shock the system with its relentless honking of horns, and heaving throng of humanity the sights, sounds and smells took my breath away.

Today it is a large metropolis, with 17 million within city limits and 28 million in the metro area, making it one of the largest urban areas in the world. The political and legislative centre of India. An essential commercial and transport hub for the country.

Most foreign travellers fly in and out of Delhi as it is the major gateway to India. Many go on tours such as the Golden Triangle. To overlook Delhi would do the city a great disservice, it is certainly one of the most diverse and historically significant cities in the world.

Happy I was able to spend a few days exploring the city before I commenced my tour. I did not have nearly enough time to explore the city sufficiently but did manage to visit some of its prominent sights.

Delhi and New Delhi what’s the difference?

Confusingly there is Delhi and New Delhi. Delhi is the official name of the Republic of Delhi and officially New Delhi is part of the National Capital Territory which is situated within Delhi and was built specifically by the British to serve as the nation’s capital. New Delhi is not officially a city it is the capital of India.

Although both are part of the larger city which has been called Delhi for over 800 years. I am glad that has been explained 😆 It was confusing to me but many Indians are not fully aware of the basic differences between the two.

India Gate

A 42-metre high gate commemorates 700,000 Indian soldiers who lost their lives fighting for the British during the First World War.

It is situated in the middle of a crossroad. The gate is very much like the Arc-de-Triomphe. Unfortunately, it was closed during our visit as it was an official bank holiday and the area was being prepared for an official function that evening. So I was only able to take a photo from a distance.

Jama Masjid

The largest mosque in India. Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1644 who also built the Taj Mahal.

The mosque is an oasis of peace, situated in the heart of Chandni Chowk in Old Dehli it rises 10 meters above street level and we had to ascend 30 steps to reach the entrance.

The complex is massive and can hold 25,000 people. It is the city’s principal mosque where Dehli’s Muslims come to Friday prayers, Jama Masjid is Arabic for Friday Mosque.

The mosque was constructed between 1650-1656 and took over 5000 workers to complete. The mosque is made from predominately red sandstone with some white marble.

The mosque is built in a Mughal architectural style which was well-known in northern India under the patronage of Mughal Emporers from the mid-16th to the late 17th century.

This being a mosque visitors must dress conservatively and shoes must be removed before entering. Just remember the entrance you came in as there are multiple entrance gates, in order to pick your shoes up at the entrance you came in.

Rickshaw ride in Chandni Chowk

One of the oldest and busiest markets in old Delhi.

The market is a perpetual hub of activity with narrow cramped lanes, each specializing in a specific product such as spices, jewellery, fresh produce and clothing. Although the day we visited things were a little subdued as it was Holi Day an important religious festival for Hindus with many businesses shut for the day.

We had booked a rickshaw ride around the Old City. A comfortable “for us anyway not cycling” eco-friendly and adevetourus way to explore the Mughal-built walled city.

This rather unique mode of transportation allowed us to dive straight into the diverse and multicultural area. The sights of old Dehli were loaded with colour and revilement due to the Holi celebrations going on.

Our experience wasn’t just consigned to people and street level as the area is home to many troops of monkeys which have also made the market their home. Although cute looking to us they can wreak havoc running across busy roads and attacking residents especially if there is food involved.

What enthralled me the most was the prospect of seeing people going about their daily lives. Travel isn’t always about grand monuments and palaces but experiencing a culture and way of life different to my own. But seeing that some things are very similar despite language, culture and religion. We are all different but at the same time, we are all the same.

Humayun’s Tomb

The first garden tomb on the Indian subcontinent. Inspiring several architectural innovations culminating with the Taj Mahal no less.

Constructed in 1570 it predates the Taj Mahal by 60 years. The tomb was constructed for a Mughal Emporer by Haji Begun, Emporer Humayun’s Persian-born wife.

The tomb marries together the Persian and Mughal elements in its design. It is constructed with red sandstone and marble and follows strict Islamic rules regarding geometry with an emphasis on the number 8.

The tomb is sublimely well-proportioned seemingly floating above its symmetrical gardens. The lovely gardens also contain the tomb of his wife and barber. An entrusted position given the nearness of a cut-throat razor to the Emporer’s throat.

Another beautiful building was Isa Khan’s octagonal tomb. A beautiful blue dome adorned with beautiful carvings set amongst green lawns.

There is no shortage of historical sites in Dehli but this UNESCO-listed site was certainly worthy of my time. A calm tranquil atmosphere and amazing historic buildings made for a very enjoyable visit.

Qutab Minar

At 240 feet it is one of Delhi’s most iconic and stunning monuments. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Construction started in the 12th century and was built in three stages by three different rulers of Dehli finally completed in the 14th century.

It is the tallest brick minaret in the world. It has five distinct storeys each marked by a protracting balcony and tapers. It has a diameter of 14.32 meters at the base and 2.75 meters at the top.

It is home to Quwwat-UI-Islam the first mosque ever built in India. The mosque was built using materials from demolished Hindu and Jain temples and I was able to see some reused architectural elements in the structure.

Qutab Minar is certainly very impressive and has survived the ravage of time impressively. Today it is one of India’s most visited monuments with 4 million visitors annually.

Holi Festival (festival of colour)

It is a popular and significant festival for Hindus. Typically spanning two days. Celebrated as the festival of colours. Which was ongoing during our visit to Dehli.

On the first night of Holi people light bonfires and throw roasting grains, popcorn and coconut on them. The next day people of all ages take to the streets for fun and paint-throwing oh yes so much paint-throwing.

The festival is a way to welcome spring, this is seen as a new beginning where people can release their inhibitions and start fresh again. This is done through much revilement including throwing the colours in the form of paint.

It is said during the festival Hindu gods turn a blind eye and is one of the few occasions extremely devout Hindus allow themselves to let loose.

With the relaxation of Hindu social codes, Holi is the most joyous and vivid occasion, it is greatly anticipated due to the fun and mayhem that ensues and it was wonderful to experience this first-hand albeit trying to avoid being paint paint-bombed by the exuberant locals 😄😄😁

The beautiful unknown. The country’s painful past has allowed it to turn its cultural diversity into a national strength.

A naturally beautiful country with an east-meets-west atmosphere, which has been born of blended Austro-Hungarian and Ottoman influences. Unfortunately, even though it was nearly thirty years ago, many still associate Bosnia and Herzegovina with the heartbreaking civil war and some scars of this are still visible today.

I am not going to dwell on the past, I prefer to highlight the country for its natural wonders impressive waterfalls, vibrant rivers, craggy mountains, numerous medieval castles and last but certainly not least its people who have an unassuming warmth and generosity.

We booked a two-day adventure with Funky Tours, an operator based in Sarajevo who are Balkan Specialists. They offer tailor-made packages with local guides and drivers. This allowed us to explore part of the more undiscovered Herzegovina at a more relaxed pace than a day tour to the major travel hotspots.

Our tour was to Herzegovina, which covers the southern part of the country. It is the smaller part of the two main geographical regions that make up the country. This takes in Mostar and Kravica Waterfalls and some undiscovered places along the way.

Kravica Waterfalls

The first stop on our first day was at the majestic Kravica Waterfalls. It is roughly about two hours from our base in Cavtat.

We got there early so the waterfalls were relatively quiet. After Mostar, this is one of the most popular places to visit in Herzegovina. Late morning, or early afternoon it can be full of people on day tours from Mostar and the nearby Croatian coastal cities of Dubrovnik and Split, as well as locals picnicking and going for a refreshing dip.

The waterfalls are formed from limestone rock that is on the watercourse of the Trebizat River in the heartland of Herzegovina. It has a height of 25 metres (80 feet) and the radius of the lake is the base of the waterfall is 120 metres (390 feet)

The lake is protected by the Bosnia and Herzegovina government, but has a relaxed attitude to governance. The park is open to the public for visits, picnics, camping and swimming. There is a cafe situated there if you want to sit and enjoy the scenery.

First and foremost Kravica Waterfalls is a serene natural location. The landscape is full of trees and even the rocks around the waterfalls are green with thick lichen, moss and grass all over them. There are hardly any manmade formations near the falls to intrude with the location’s complete natural environment.

Pocitelj

Our next stop is Pocitelj a small walled town. It was the mainstay of the defence against the Ottomans.

The walled town of Pocitelj evolved in the period from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Its strategic role from the 13th to 17th century gave its inhabitants the power to build one of the best-preserved buildings ensembles within the city walls in the country.

Recent reconstruction of the town has returned it to its original form. The historic urban site of Pocitelj is now on a UNESCO Tentative List for Bosnia and Herzegovina.

The fortress was first built in 1383 and had a strategic role in controlling the passage to the sea through the Nereveta Valley, as the main stronghold against the Turkish conquest of Nereveta River Valley.

Today it has become a prevalent stop for lots of tour operators covering the Balkans. The hinterland of the Balkans despite some well-known locations such as Mostar, represents a relatively unbeknownst and unexplored region for foreign visitors to experience. This was not a place that I expected to see, but delighted I had the opportunity to do so.

There are still people living within Pocitelj walls, 40 permanent residents still residing there. Many have an alternative income by selling local produce to visitors. Our guide Stefan was keen for us to support some of the local community. We purchased some pomegranate juice which was delicious and fresh.

Pocitelj lays claim to being one of the oldest cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, as well as one of the oldest continually inhabited cities in the world.

The population increases during the summer period and weekends. Previous vacant properties now being rented out to visitors wanting to experience this undiscovered location.

Blagaj Tekija

Blagaj is a town situated at the spring of the Buna River, Europe’s largest underground river, about 30 minutes from Mostar.

This is a very spiritual place, a natural and cultural oasis with human settlements in the town that date back more than 12000 years.

The town’s main attraction is undoubtedly the Blagaj Tekija monastery, nearly 600 years old and situated at the base of a cliff next to the source of the Buna River. It was a unique and picturesque building. It was founded during the height of the Ottoman Empire and has great religious and spiritual significance to Muslims in the area.

The river flows surprisingly fast and the sound of the water rolling over the rocks, then dropping into the riverbed has a deeply soothing effect on us, who would have thought something as simple as flowing water would have such an impact, perhaps the spiritual history of the location had an effect on me.

This was our lunch stop at one of the waterside restaurants. The only sound to be heard was water rushing past us, together with the cooling air coming from the river made for a relaxing lunch.

We were recommended the trout which was locally sourced and delicious. I then had my first experience with the national tipple of Bosnian coffee, deeply ingrained in the local psyche with a traditional way of serving and drinking. I love strong coffee and quickly acquired a taste for this Bosnian nectar.

Mostar

An underrated culture-rich city

Mostar is one of Bosnia and Herzgavonia’s most enchanting cities. Mostar may be less frequented than cities like Dubrovnik and Kotor, yet offered me diversity and charm.

It is an ideal day trip from Croatia, however, I wanted an overnight stay. Avoiding the mid-day rush of day trippers to the old town, we got to experience its quieter more peaceful side in the morning and evening.

The city certainly had a different vibe once the visitors left, it was relaxed and allowed us to explore beyond the usual spots like the old town and bridge.

Also, staying overnight in Mostar let us see the city lit up at night which was pretty special, even with less-than-perfect weather it was great to see for myself its beauty and to soak up the atmosphere.

We got the opportunity to soak up the atmosphere of a bazaar. The cobbled stone streets burst into life with colour and life. Offering a shopping experience reminiscent of a Turkish market but without the constant aggravation.

We found oriental rugs, handcrafted jewellery, and intricate copper crafts. war memorabilia as well as many souvenir shops.

Strolling down the street was more than just shopping it was a cultural experience. As we wandered down we caught a glimpse of the Mostar Bridge, beautifully framing our journey through this vibrant marketplace.

Of course, the city’s most famous attraction is the Stari Most Old Bridge. A masterpiece of Ottoman engineering showcasing an elegant single-pointed arch design. Testament to the ingenuity of the 16th-century builders

The bridge connects two vibrant parts of the city, exemplifying the meeting of cultures and history. The original was destroyed during the Croat-Bosnik War on the 9th of November 1993. Reconstruction commenced on 7th June 2001 and was officially inaugurated on 23rd July 2004.

The bridge is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and undoubtedly the main sight in Mostar, if not Bosnia and Herzegovina. The 21-meter-high bridge is regularly frequented by the Mostar Diving Club whose members dive off the bridge. Unfortunately, there were no divers when we were there in the evening and early morning, the divers preferred to perform for larger crowds in the early afternoon.

But enough about Mostar Bridge, I was able to view the original. The crooked bridge in the old town was the blueprint for its more illustrious sibling as it predates it by 7 years. The bridge is nestled in a quiet area lined with restaurants. Just a short distance from Mostar Bridge.

Eating in Mostar is not just a meal it is an experience with epic portions. A culinary journey that is as rich and varied as its past.

One restaurant that was recommended by several people was Sadravan, so I gave it a go. No river view but it’s certainly a popular restaurant. Situated in the heart of the old town serving local cuisine with absolutely humongous portions and warm hospitality.

Breakfast the next morning the sun was shining. Sitting on the terrace, we were treated to sweeping views of the river and Mostar Bridge. Early morning you can virtually pick whatever table you want. There are plenty of restaurants with breathtaking views so no shortage of incredible vantage points to admire the stunning view.

Mostar’s cafe culture is vibrant and nothing is more traditionally authentic than grabbing a Bosnian coffee. This delicious nectar is like espresso on steroids. Having tried it earlier in the day I couldn’t pass up another opportunity to partake in a cup again.

Mostar today bears no resemblance to the city that it was during the war, the most heavily destroyed city in Bosnia and Herzgavania. A city with a complex past where Muslims, Croats and Serbs all called the city home. You can find Catholic, Orthodox and Muslim places of worship in Mostar.

My experience with Mostar was much different than I anticipated. I had numerous preconceived presumptions about the city and the war, but ultimately it made me realize the cruelty of war and although the fighting has ended the effects can linger on.

Amongst the post-war scars, there is beauty to be found. Its lovely old town with old Europe cobblestone steps, fantastic restaurants, one very famous bridge, compact visitor-friendly location and the friendliest welcoming people I could wish to meet, make Mostar an ideal place to spend some time.

Brkic Winery

After our overnight stay in Mostar, our first stop of the day was a local winery. Herzegovina winemaking is still somewhat of a hidden secret like so many other things in this stunning country.

The Brkic Winery we visited is a family-run business. Where wine is made organically and biodynamic using natural methods, they are aged in local Bosnian oak barrels dealing with coopers in Bugojno who supply the family with authentic Bosnian oak barrels.

The wine at Brkic Winery is authentic and unique. Using only Indigenous grape varieties Zilavaka (white) and Blatina (red) These wines have been grown in the region for centuries and give the best results in Herzegovinian stone and sunlight. Herzegovina as a region is not polluted, the climate is perfectly suited to wine production.

The wines are all made as naturally as possible. Strongly following biodynamic winemaking processes. A wide selection of different Brkic wine brands are made in a completely organic way without any additives that may impair the natural quality of the grape.

It has become a popular spot on the Herzegovinan wine trail. On our tour with Funky Tours, we had the opportunity to partake in some wine tasting. Although I don’t profess to be a wine connoisseur, I certainly enjoy my wine and in my humble opinion, these were wines of very high quality. A beautiful clean natural taste certainly no sulphates to be found at this winery.

Besides wine, they also produce some other spirits and liqueurs like grappa and honey liqueur. They also produce exquisite olive oil which we tasted after wine tasting with some flavorful cheese, ham and bread and I bought a bottle to take home with me.

My only regret at the Brkic Winery is that they don’t ship wines to Wales 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿 oh no!!!!! I did manage to buy a few bottles which I would have to take back with me on the plane. The local wine community want these quality wines all to themselves.

Radimlja Necropolis

The Radimlja Necropolis is one of the most valuable monuments of the medieval period in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

After the visit to the winery, our next stop was the Necropolis which is protected by UNESCO and designated as part of the World Heritage List. It is situated on the outskirts of Stolack.

At first glance, it reminded me of an abandoned graveyard which of course is what it is, but on closer examination there are about 135 white stone blocks, over 60 which are visibly carved.

These are some of the country’s most important stecci (carved grave markers) Different ones depicting a message in how that person lived their life. A bow and arrow would depict a hunter, and grapes would depict someone involved with working the land. These would have been expensive to make so only the rich would have the means to have them.

There are over 60,000 of these tombstones in Bosnia and Herzegovina although not all are as well preserved as this site. An interesting stop a location that I would not have visited independently. Giving an insight into the long history of this country.

Stolack

Stolac is situated near the border with Croatia and Montenegro. The town is home to several historical sites including Stolac old city, the Stolac Fortress and the previously mentioned Radimlja Necropolis. We walked up to Stolac Old City which was 10 minutes from the town up an incline.

The old city is a historical monument that contains ancient walks, towers, gates palaces and mosques. This is one of Herzegovina’s historically important destinations yet is completely overlooked, despite it being close to Mostar and not far from the Croatian coast. We were the only visitors there which made for a very personalised tour with our guide Addis from Funky Tours.

Things may be changing soon in the area, a cultural tourist route is being set up to take advantage of its rich cultural and historical heritage. It has been set up with funding from the EU and World Bank. To put this undiscovered location firmly on the map.

The town itself has a charming mix of Ottoman and Austro-Hungarian architecture and acts as the cultural centre for the region with many historical sites nearby.

Traditional water mill

Our final stop on our two-day adventure was a late lunch at this rather charming water mill that had been converted into a restaurant.

Water is abundant in the area. The Bregava River provides a much-needed life essence to Stolac and irrigates the fertile land that surrounds the town. This mill was situated on an islet in the Bregava River

During the Ottoman period, Stolac became very important due to its waterways and strategic position, with many canals and watermills being constructed.

A perfect stop to enjoy a relaxing alfresco lunch, on the outside terrace with a fantastic view of the nearby Provalije waterfalls, peaceful and tranquil the soothing sound of the water cascading down beside us made this dining experience very memorable.

We had a shared platter of some traditional food. Local cheese, cured meats and traditional bread rolls that tasted like savoury doughnuts. Addis our guide explained that they are baked and then fried and served with a cheese spread. Eating in this country is certainly very calorific in terms of the food and the gigantic portion size.

In the blink of an eye, our mini adventure had come to an end. Our transfer back to the Dalmatian coast awaits. Bosnia and Herzegovina was not a destination on my travel itinerary, but I am extremely glad I went. It was well worth checking out.

A place of simple pleasures

Croatia has become somewhat of a must-do destination. Beautiful coastlines, exquisite architecture, stunning lakes, captivating countryside, intriguing history, fresh cuisine and some delicious wines. It’s not hard to see why it has become so popular.

This is my second visit to Croatia. This time we have travelled to the southern part of Croatia, Cavtat. A town framed by mountains and swathes of fresh pine and cypress trees. With a stunning waterfront lined with palm trees, some describe it as closely resembling St Tropez.

It can be somewhat of a cliche but Cavtat is genuinely a picturesque charming town. It is the main town for the Konvale region. It is conveniently situated by the airport so no long transfers and a great place to explore the nearby travel hotspot Dubrovnik.

Although Cavtat may not have the instagramble allure of Dubrovnik, for me it offered so much more than its illustrious but very crowded and very busy neighbour. It gave us the best of both worlds. The sights and culture of Dubrovnik without the hustle and bustle. Cavtat could be the neighbour that’s under the radar.

Exploring Cavtat

Cavtat is conveniently located to explore the area of not only Dubrovnik, but the region with some beautiful countryside, excellent vineyards, and the opportunity to go island hopping with many different islands conveniently located nearby and easily accessible with many boat trips and transfers available.

As well as exploring Croatia, you can also visit some neighbouring countries as well. Cavtat is one of Croatia’s most southerly resort towns. Only 22 kilometres south of the Montenegro border. If you travel 15 kilometres to the east you will get to the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina, where you can explore the many undiscovered places that the country has to offer, undoubtedly more than just Mostar another travel hotspot.

Cavtat is a quiet and relaxing place. Life goes by slowly here, a very simple pleasure that is so hard to find in the fast-paced lives most people tend to lead these days. If you are looking for party-central this isn’t the destination for you.

The main hub of Cavtat is its promenade which to me confusingly felt very French in atmosphere but with Italian-influenced architecture, the Greeks also inhabited the country before the Romans and left their stamp on the area. Although I have to say despite similarities with other countries, Cavtat is pretty in its own unique way.

It has many Mediterranean-style cafes and restaurants enticing us to stop for refreshments. I tried hard not to stop as the promenade was so relaxing, I could probably laze around people watching for hours. There is a small harbour at the end of the promenade and there is a delightful wine bar with fantastic views of the waterfront I finally succumb to the temptation 🍷

Away from the waterfront, there is a small but very charming old town. Walking along narrow paths and numerous steps we immediately get transported in time. All the highlights can be discovered quite quickly.

At the edge of the promenade by the harbour, we found the St Nicholas church which dates back to the 15th century and is a prominent local landmark. The many Catholic churches in Croatia are evidence of the many years of Roman and Venitian occupation

Walking through the old town we gradually find ourselves rising above the town with some fantastic vistas. We got 360 views over the harbour and old town.

It’s less than ten minutes from the promenade and well worth it to get some great views of the locality. There are a few access points to the Mausoleum, you can walk through the forest on the other side rather than through the old town like us.

Along with the vistas we also found the Raic Mausoleum designed by a famed Croatian sculptor and architect Ivan Mestrovic using local Brac stone. Definitely worth exploring as the Mausoleum has an interesting history and is well-situated to enjoy the views.

Back along the promenade, we discovered some rather grand sculptures. The sculpture on the left is Valtazar Bogsic a renowned sociologist and politician. On the right Dr Franjo Tudman Crostia’s first prime minister.

Cavtat is very atmospheric at night. After the sun has set it’s still a stunningly beautiful location and an excellent place to relax and recharge till the next day.

Konvale Valley

Just outside Cavtat, we found the Konvale Valley. This area is known as the Golden Valley due to its very fertile ground.

Konvale is an area of waterfalls and watermills with lots of small canals running throughout the area. Konvale derives from the Latin word Canalis which indicates water supply channels in the area.

It was only a few miles from Cavtat. The area is sparsely populated and is an oasis of calm and is now a popular place for visitors to enjoy these naturalistic gems.

This region was once overlooked but is an area which is closely associated with nature and local traditions. There is an ancient fortress situated there, Fort Sokol, due to its strategic location within the old Dubrovnik Republic, defending the area from numerous invaders.

The Konvale Valley is a very popular location with wine connoisseurs. The area is renowned for producing high-quality wines. With vines planted within a fertile valley squeezed between the mountains and the sea.

A perfect opportunity to visit a winery and its winemakers. Many have a tradition of winemaking that goes back centuries. This rich tradition of winemaking has given Croatia many Indigenous grape varieties, many relatively unknown to people outside of Croatia. One example is Plavac Mali the main grape variety of highly regarded Dalmation reds.

Sunsets in Cavtat

Cavtat is an amazing place to view some amazing sunsets.

We didn’t even have to go far this short video was taken by Eve Lounge Bar which was just by our hotel.

Another picture was taken from the Eve Lounge bar as the sun was about to set on another day. For me probably my favourite place to enjoy the sunset while staying in Cavtat.

Another place very popular on Instagram, Facebook and other social media platforms was the Beach Bar Little Star. Great place to enjoy a sunset but you will need to get there early to get a front seat to enjoy an unobstructed view.

Although this place was very good I think it’s become a victim of its own success. The bar was very busy and drinks were expensive. I witnessed just as good sunsets in other locations some of which were free.

Eating and drinking in Cavtat

Cavtat is a great place to enjoy some delicious food and fantastic wines. Its definitely not in the budget category but it won’t break the bank either.

There are many restaurants and bars to choose from. Harbour-facing, waterfront-facing and beach-facing, which gives us the opportunity to eat and drink some delectable produce in some beautiful settings.

Before we start the main meal, Cavtat is the perfect location to enjoy a pre-meal drink, cocktail, aperitif or sundowner. Call it what you will, the stunning location is the perfect backdrop to start your evening. They certainly know how to do things in style here that’s for certain.

Some dining highlights for us are Ciparis, La Boheme and Ivan restaurant all having delectable food and great service in some stunning locations. These are my personal opinions but wherever you choose you will have a fantastic dining experience.

Numerous restaurants in Cavtat base their gastronomical offerings on traditional Dalmatian and Mediterranean cuisine, serving local dishes using high-quality local ingredients. Fish is very popular, great quality and fresh.

Italian influences from pizza and pasta, as well as Ottoman influences freshly made cevapi, a grilled dish of mince. Baklava a traditional Turkish sweet pastry widely available. We even saw some Austro-Hungarian influences as strudel is very popular. Apple, cherry or even cheese varieties.

We were fortunate to enjoy some scrumptious food and wine while appreciating some captivating scenery while we dined. Wherever you choose to dine, Cavtat has a bit of a reputation as being a gastronomic hot spot.

Another simple pleasure in Cavtat is enjoying a sunset with a drink. It was wonderful to watch the sunset over the Adriatic Sea. Seeing the final moments of the sun as it dipped down on the horizon. A very magical part of the day.

Runs or walks around the peninsula

Cavtat is essentially two pedestrianised peninsuls with a pretty bay in between.

If you do the two peninsulas together it’s 4.3 kilometres. Cavtat is located on the Rat Peninsula together with the Sustjepsn Peninsula making it a well-protected and accessible bay.

It provides shade for a lovely morning or evening stroll, walk or run under the pine trees. We were able to explore all around Cavtat’s bay.

We ran in the morning and it was also a lovely stroll in the evening to aid with digestion after overindulging on food and drink.

The larger Rat Peninsula containing the old town is completely encircled by well-conditioned tarmac. This is predominantly flat with two slight gradients on either side of the peninsula, which is predominantly wooded along the footpath.

A picture stop on our run with the renowned Croatian painter Vlaho Bukovac. Behind is the Our Lady of The Snow Monastery founded in the 14th century. It now houses Bukovac’s paintings and functions as an art gallery.

With excellent views throughout, the peninsula starts at the car park behind the promenade just past the bus station and loops around to the front of the promenade by the old town and harbour completing the loop.

The smaller peninsula is over on the western corner with varying terrain with views of the old town and views of the sea at the tip of the peninsula and on the western side.

You will have to walk through the Hotel Croatia on both sides of the walk but there is unrestricted access to the peninsula. It has a very natural feel although could be a bit unstable underfoot. We walked this peninsula rather than ran it.

Life’s a beach well sort of ?

Although Cavtat isn’t short of beaches in fact we were staying by the biggest one Zal. They do tend to be rather small and mostly gravel/pebblestone.

We decided to take advantage of the taxi boats from Cavtat and visit a beach location a short boat trip away to Mlini. A 15 minutes transfer to be exact.

Mlini isnt overrun with sights, but that’s okay! It was a great place to relax and enjoy a bit of beach time.

But before that, it is worth taking a stroll along the promenade. It’s a very picturesque walk from Mlini to Srebreno. It is 5 kilometres there and back.

Srebreno was a nice beach with large and very shallow waters making it a popular option for families. There are a few modern hotels there but it lacks the understated charm of Mlini.

We headed back to Mlini retracing our steps along the beautiful promenade. We arrived back at the quaint little harbour, good to know as this is where we get our taxi boat back to Cavtat later on 😆

In the village just off the beach, we found a few old mills which have been preserved, in fact that’s how Mlini got its name. Mlini translates from Croatian to English as mill.

Time to do what we originally came to do and have some relaxing beach time. There are plenty of loungers to hire and the azure blue sea certainly looked very inviting. My only advice bring water shoes and watch for large rocks on the floor. It was a definitely a very chilled afternoon.

All that lounging had certainly worked up an appetite 🤣 For a town of less than 1000 people there were certainly a good selection of restaurants and cafes to choose from.

We choose one on the waterfront, it had a lovely atmosphere which served a large selection of Dalmatian dishes, it’s also well-known for its pizzas. We had the pizza, simple, understated and beautifully presented not unlike Mlini itself.

Then in the blink of an eye, it was time to catch the taxi boat back to Cavtat. I don’t think our public transportation system compares to this one. Catching the last bus back home pales into insignificance compared to catching the last boat home the 19.00 to Cavtat.

Majestic tigers and verdant landscapes exotic flora and fauna. A natural wilderness.

Once a private game reserve of the royal House of Jaipur. It has now gone full circle and is one of the world’s best-known conservation and wilderness areas

The park is located in the Sawai Madhupur district of Southern Rajasthan. It’s about 130 miles from the Rajasthan capital Jaipur and is a favored stop on the Golden Triangle tourist route.

The park extends over an area of 500 sq km. It was initially set up as a game sanctuary in 1955 by the Indian Government. In 1973 it was declared one of India’s project tiger reserves. In 1980 it was officially declared a national park.

The forests beside the park were named Sawai Man Singh Sanctuary. Although the Bengal tigers are undoubtedly the main attraction there is a rich diversity of wildlife which calls the park home.

The flora and fauna are equally impressive, including the largest banyan tree in the world which is the national tree of India and is considered sacred.

Ranthambore Fort is situated within the park built over 1000 years ago it is one of the most important structures in Rajasthan. The park is named after the fort and it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We pre-booked the game drives with our tour operator Llama Travel. This made things much easier. It is slightly more expensive than booking directly but it takes the hassle of arranging guides and transferring to the relevant zone. Many hotels will also arrange a game drive.

The park itself is divided into 10 different wildlife zones. Visitors can only enter on a guided safari tour and zones were allocated to us on the day. We were split into groups of four and transferred to our zone for that morning’s game drive.

Adventures can be very mixed we booked two game drives on the same day. In retrospect, I wouldn’t have done this, distances between the zones allocated to us are far-flung, I personally got more opportunities to view wildlife in the morning than I did in the afternoon.

We were booked in a gypsy which is an open-topped jeep which usually sits 6, our tour party was 4 as the vehicle had been arranged by Llama. This certainly gave us an intimate experience compared to some of the large open-top trucks we had seen, not to mention a lot more manoeuvrability around the park.

Some zones are very busy, when numerous jeeps converge in one area, people shout between vehicles, and the disturbance is not ideal for viewing animals. So getting a good guide and driver is essential.

The operations here are a lot different from what I experienced in African safaris. I am not saying this is a bad thing just different. Again the experience certainly depends on your driver and guide.

The morning drive was the better of the two. Our allocated zone was only a 15-minute transfer from our hotel, we did manage to see some wildlife, but no tigers unfortunately, sightings are never guaranteed, one out of the four groups in our tour party got to see tigers and leopards, so it’s the luck of the draw.

We did manage to see langur monkeys, samba deers, mongoose and countless species of birds. At the end of the day, it’s not a zoo and it helps to reign in my expectations and just enjoy what I see in front of me

Spending hours in an open-top vehicle in the blazing afternoon sun wasn’t ideal for our second game drive of the day. It was nearly a two-hour transfer from our hotel, the vehicle wasn’t four-wheel drive which made for poor traction during parts of the game drive.

However, my personal favourite experience during the game drive was a chance sighting of a sloth bear as we were waiting beside a water source in the vain hope of spotting a tiger, at the end of a rather fruitless afternoon drive.

One of our tour party noticed the sloth bear creeping behind us with two cubs on her back. The guide said it was very unusual to see a bear during the day as they were usually nocturnal. We only caught a fleeting glimpse but it was enough to make an otherwise uneventful game drive worthwhile.

Then after that momentous experience of spotting a sloth bear with cubs as they are generally nocturnal, it was a two-hour drive back to our hotel in Sawai Madhapur. Where we certainly experienced the sights and sounds of India 🇮🇳

There are no hotels within the park but lots of options in Sawai Madhapur which is considered the gateway to Ranthambore National Park. Although we couldn’t get much closer less than 5 minutes away to the nearest zone and not much further from the furthest zone about 2 hours away.

It was however a fantastic hotel to relax after two-long game drives. A great place to catch up at the bar after dinner with the rest of the group discussing our shared experiences of Ranthambore.

It may sound a bit entitled but it can be a long day on dusty and bumpy roads in an open-top vehicle with blazing sun and didn’t get to see any tigers.

However, it was still an experience worth doing, I know many people would love to have the opportunity to do this and for me, it was still an enjoyable time and a privilege to be able to do so.

All was not lost though as I managed to spot a tiger 🐅 on my travels, albeit in the form of a giant mural that was located very close to the hotel.

A bustling energetic place full to the brim with sights, sounds and flavours that unequivocally present Rajhistian in all its glory

Jaipur epitomises Rajhastan’s colour its regal heritage and its artisan culture. It was first painted pink to honour the visit of the Prince of Wales in 1876.

This very picturesque city with numerous forts palaces and historical monuments. Along with Dehli and Agra, it forms part of India’s famous Golden Triangle.

Jaipur is the largest city in Rajasthan and its capital. Although it has a rich heritage, it is a fast-developing city with many development projects ongoing.

Jaipur’s nickname The Pink City comes from its distinct pink-coloured buildings which were painted this colour to imitate the red sandstone architecture of Mughal Cities.

The present earthy red colours first came to prominence when buildings were repainted for the visit of the Prince of Wales in 1876. It was India’s very first architectural planned city.

Amber Palace

Jaipur has not one but six world heritage forts. Amber Palace is one of the most well-known.

Towering majestically high on a hill above the village of Amber. This 16th-century fort blends perfectly with Muslim Mughal and Hindi Rajput elements.

To get to the top there are a few options available you can walk, go by golf cart or go by Jeep. We choose the Jeep option. However, the road can get very congested and hectic.

The fort was constructed in 1592 by Raja Man Singha, the Rajput commander of Akbar’s army. Improvements and additions were made by successive rulers over the next 150 years.

It is set amidst hills and overlooks Maota Lake. The lake was once the main water source for Amber Fort. In the centre of the lake is an island covered in a lush garden which was first planted in the 15th century.

The fort is a gorgeous piece of ancient architecture which is constructed from red sandstone and marble. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2013.

The complex is vast with four expansive sections to explore, we navigated through a maze of archways, cobbled paths, hallways and courtyards.

A guide is a must at one of Jaipur’s most incredible and popular attractions. There is just so much to see and our tour guide was very knowledgeable and had a great passion for the area. Which allowed us to get the most from our visit.

However with over 1.8 million visitors a year and over 215,000 during peak season. It requires careful management of the complex to best reserve Amber Fort for future generations.

Jantar Mantar

An astronomical observation site was built in the 19th century. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

It features the world’s largest stone sundial (Samrat Yantra) a sundial which can tell the time within 2 seconds and is still used to this day.

Each of the buildings in this sprawling complex was once used for a singular and specific purpose. That’s what made my visit so interesting as each of the buildings had a unique and fascinating history.

This was one of the stops on an organised tour and wouldn’t necessarily be a place of interest for me. But it was a very intriguing visit where we were able to marvel at one of the largest collections of astronomical instruments in the world.

City Palace of Jaipur

The City Palace Jaipur is a royal residence and former administrative headquarters of the rulers of Jaipur.

The palace was built by Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II who moved his capital from Amber to Jaipur in 1727. Jaipur has remained the capital ever since and the palace was completed in 1732.

Today City Palace is one of Jaipur’s most famous buildings and is a very popular location with visitors. It conveys the regency of its past where countless Rajasthani royalty have been in residence.

The palace is a combination of gardens, temples, palaces and pavilions. The unique architecture of the palace certainly makes for a fascinating visit.

During our visit, we were propositioned by some very regal-looking guards. But it’s not because we have committed some cultural faux pas. They were open to giving us the perfect picture opportunity 😆

There are palace buildings from different eras some dating from the early 20th century. It is a striking blend of different architectural styles. Set in immaculately maintained gardens.

Pink City Gates

There are seven gates in total and they act as entry and exit points from the walled city. Today these gates are a great reminder of the great architectural legacy of yesteryear

The wall encircling the city was an important part of the plan laid under the supervision of Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II and this is how it became the walled city.

Jal Mahal (Water Palace)

A palace that floats majestically in the middle of Sagar Lake.

Constructed in 1799 as a summer retreat for Maharaja Jaib Singh II. It is not open to the public. It is now an upmarket hotel with plans to develop the palace and restore it to its former glory.

Hawa Mahal (Palace of Wind)

Completed in 1799 a World Heritage Site and one of Jaipur and indeed India’s most famous buildings.

The main purpose of the building was to allow ladies of the royal family to observe the busy streets below without being seen by the common people.

Made of pink and red sandstone, it is Jaipur’s signature palace’s, the unusual architecture is considered one the finest examples of Rajput architecture in India. The 933 windows undoubtedly make this building the world’s largest screened porch

Jaipur by night

A fantastic evening exploring Jaipur by night.

Our nighttime adventure included a battery rickshaw ride of Jaipur’s old city. They were surprisingly fast and are most commonly used as a form of public transportation.

With a gentle breeze caressing my hair or was that just the street hawkers trying to get my attention 😆 The frenetic energy of the city unfolding in front of us. It was a magical way to see the city unfolding in front of us.

A tour of some of Jaipur’s popular and off-the-beaten-track locations. Discovering the city from a different perspective and experiencing the incredible atmosphere of Jaipur at night.

Although we saw the Hawa Mahal in the daytime it was equally memorising by night Experiencing it in the evening is a great way to enjoy its beauty from another perspective.

We visited a bustling local market where you can buy almost anything, although it’s probably not the best place to browse as vendors can be very wearing with their constant unsolicited approaches.

We then visited a flower market which was a much more relaxed affair. Flowers are a way of life in India as Hindus use them in offerings for daily prayers in temples, homes and offices.

We captured the beauty of illuminated palaces, monuments and bustling markets. Unveiling to us a different side of the city which we would not have been able to encounter during the day.