Costa Smeralda

A 20-kilometre coastal area and tourist destination. Located roughly between the villages of Baja Sardinia and Porto Rotondo.

This northeastern part of Sardina translates into Emerald Coast in English. Famed for its luxurious resorts, giant yachts and beautiful beaches. A popular holiday destination which still retains a balance with its beautiful surroundings.

The Costa Smeralda is famous for its perfectly clear green turquoise waters and miles of picture perfect bays, coves and white sandy beaches. I thought I was in the Caribbean rather than the Mediterranean.

Costa Smeralda’s reputation as a paradise for the jet set is certainly true, especially around the resorts of Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo. Complete with chic marinas, boutique hotels shopping malls and vibrant nightlife.

But it’s not all glitz and glam. You may think that Costa Smeralda is dedicated exclusively to luxury holidays, but that is not entirely the case. In addition to the upmarket resorts, there are places suitable for all budgets.

The main attraction of this part of Sardinia is entirely natural. The beauty of its beaches and coast, lovely traditional villages and history which goes back a 1000 years. It is a place where ancient traditions and natural beauty join luxurious resorts in effortless Italian style.

Baja Sardina

A beach resort on the Costa Smeralda. Which is a popular place to stay and our base while in Sardinia.

This was once a very small resort with less than 100 residents. The village has grown as the popularity of the Costa Smeralda has increased.

Baja Sardinia now has hotels and apartment complexes alongside shops, bars and restaurants, all centred along a small promenade close to the beach and bay.

The bays beaches and coves here are home to crystal clear waters and clean white sand. Although only ten minutes from Porto Cervo the vibe here is unquestionably more understated.

The whole town is based around the beautiful pristine beach. Sandwiched between green smothered cliffs on either side. We were able to walk up the mountain. It’s less than a mile from the beach so it’s close by and worth it for the panoramic vistas of Baja Sardinia.

The beach there has an extremely calming vibe. The fan-shaped beach at Baja Sardinia is made up of smooth rocks and soft white sand that gently slopes into beautiful turquoise waters. A great location for a swim as you look out at The Maddalena Islands situated directly opposite.

Exploring Baja Sardinia

Baja Sardinia isn’t just a beach holiday there is plenty of opportunity to explore. But it gives us the perfect chance to do both with numerous beaches over 300 in northern Sardinia alone.

There are some excellent walking trails around Baja Sardinia. There is a circular walk which is under 10 kilometres and takes in a couple of quiet unspoilt beaches. The perfect location for a relaxing environment.

Our first stop less than a mile from Baja Sardinia is the exclusive resort of Phi Beach. Although there is very little to see as it’s a rather exclusive beach club.Famed for its sunsets and very expensive cocktails I will leave this location for the young hipsters 😆

Continuing on with our walk we come to the rather charming and unspoiled Spiaggia Tre Monti. It’s in a very natural setting and when we visited very popular with locals. It has a small bay with clear blue waters. Not the most beautiful beach we saw but a very relaxing beach to enjoy.

Further on we came to yet another beach, Spiaggia Mucchi Bianchi. This was more popular and had a beautiful setting loungers and umbrellas were available and a beach cafe.

The water here was very calm and an emerald colour. It wax the excellent location for a cooling dip while enjoying the beautiful scenery.

Dining in Costa Smeralda

From high end Michelin star restaurants to the humble cafe and everything in between. Many in beautiful settings dining was certainly a pleasure.

Sardinia being part of Italy there will be no shortage of culinary delights, dining in some fantastic restaurants. We were able to sample all the Italian favourites pasta, pizza and gelato, prices didn’t break the bank either, with restaurants to suit all budgets.

Sardinian cuisine however is very different to Italian. Pork and lamb feature very heavily on Sardinian menus with potatoes rather than pasta. We also found a fantastic array of bread and cheeses traditional to the island.

Their signature dessert is also very unique seadas which is a cheese pasty deep fried and served with honey, I tried it and it was a lot nicer than it sounds.

Apertivo that fantastic Italian cultural tradition, although not as popular as on the mainland we were able to sample it in a few establishments on Sardinia. A pre meal drink. Basically nibbles with drinks but with all that added Italian sophistication

Derived from the Latin aperire the tradition is meant to open the stomach before dining. It’s one of the things I love about being in Italy 🇮🇹. A fantastic way to end the day? Or start the evening? Who cares cheers or as they say in Italy cin cin.

Italy is famous for its ice cream, Sardinia is famous for its breads. In Sardinia they have come up with an ingenious recipe to combine the two brioche ice cream. Delicious ice cream in freshly baked brioche bun which was scrumptious. Travel certainly broadens the mind and certainly the waistline 😆😆😆

Porto Cervo

Purpose-built in the 1950s, Porto Cervo is an elite seaside resort and is synonymous with luxury.

Less than two miles from Baja Sardina however, where Baja Sardina is relaxed and had an understated charm, Porto Cervo is renowned for its sophisticated ambience and upmarket appeal. It’s one of the world’s most expensive resorts.

For a village with a population of less than 500 residents, it boasts not one but two harbours. Porto Cervo marina has 700 berths with 100 of those reserved for mega yachts. It’s renowned as being a luxury yacht magnet.

We found very high-end shops and boutiques a veritable who’s who of exclusive names Rolex, Cartier, Prada, Versace and a Bentley dealership, although bizarrely there was a Lidl and Boots chemist. There were a few bars and restaurants at Porto Cervo and prices were surprisingly reasonable lunch wouldn’t have broke the bank. Although hotels are some of the most expensive on the island.

With all this talk of unadulterated expense and luxury, it was time to leave unfortunately not on one of the many expensive mega yachts but back on the service bus that had brought us there from Baja Sardinia 😆😆😆

San Pantaleo

Sardinia is dotted with small little-known villages that contain all the charm and beauty of Italian life. San Pantaleo is certainly one of the most beautiful villages.

Come up the mountain road from Costa Smeralda to visit this town that is nestled between the mountains and the ocean. San Pantaleo is a place where you can experience the best of authentic Sardinia.

Wander around cobbled streets we found plenty of art galleries and antique shops. We felt like we had been transported to another time and place as some of the old-fashioned buildings take on a fairytale look.

In the centre of San Pantaleo, there is a main square the Piazza della Chiesa. We found the Catholic Church situated here along with a smattering of shops and restaurants. The perfect spot to enjoy a coffee and relax.

This is the perfect location which gave us a wonderful view of the church surrounded by mountain peaks, the interesting outlines of the mountain and traditional stone buildings a quintessential sight of Sardinia which combines traditional life and historic architecture.

Poltu Quatu

A pretty little port made up of all-white buildings which surround a natural fjord. It was created in the 1950s by Prince Karim Aga Khan one of the world’s richest men.

Poltu Quatu looks like a traditional fishing village albeit with luxury yachts docked in the harbour rather than fishing vessels.

Appearance can be deceptive as this is a relatively new development. Located between Baja Sardina and Porto Cervo. Although more like the latter in terms of design and feel. It’s very tastefully done as it does blend in perfectly with its natural surroundings.

The main harbour is an excellent starting point for boat trips and there are many to choose from including the nearby La Maddalena islands. It is also the diving centre with many schools using the port as it’s base.

There are a few bars and restaurants in which to enjoy these beautiful natural surroundings. The vibe here is very relaxing and despite its very exclusive location prices were very reasonable it would be the ideal place to enjoy a romantic dinner. It’s a honeypot for A-list celebrities so you could be in good company 😆

Olbia

Most people arrive in Olbia as the port and airport are both situated there. Frequently bypassed as most people are staying at nearby Costa Smeralda.

We spent a few hours in the town. Definitely worth a visit as there are some interesting places. The shopping is excellent with high-end stores and budget shops. A great place to visit if the weather isn’t great or want a change from the beach.

Olbia is probably not the prettiest place we visited, But it had a few charms to merit our attention a compact old town with some historic architecture and a pleasant waterfront and a large selection of inexpensive restaurants.

There is no better place to start than Olbia’s old town. Walking along the main street we saw many elegant buildings, with shops, bars and an open-air market selling many locally produced items. This small historic core is a pleasant place to amble and enjoy a leisurely alfresco lunch.

Olbia’s most important architectural building within the old town is the San Paolo Church. It is famous for its majolica dome which is a local landmark and can be seen from a fair distance.