Island hopping in the Dodecanese

Kos is a fascinating Island but while we were visiting, we couldn’t resist the opportunity of a brief getaway to some of the nearby islands.

Kos is part of the Dodecanese Islands. What I didn’t realize is that there are 12 large islands and over 150 smaller islands within the island group. Kos is an ideal place in which to enjoy a short visit to the numerous islands of the Dodecanese.

A little bit of planning is in order as the islands are dotted all around Kos where we were staying. Nonetheless, in actuality, most boat trips will either depart from Kos Town in the north of Kos or Kardamina located on the south-central coast. We had chosen three islands to stop by during our ten-day stay.

We booked organized trips as public transport although frequent, is not very reliable and taxis are in very short supply. Organised trips are not always the most personable way to visit but when taking into consideration time and cost they offer very good value.

Nisyros Island

Nisyros Island is a very pretty location with unique volcanic terrain. It is a relatively unknown Ageaon Island and is situated near Kos. With frequent ferries departing from Kos to Nisyros, it’s not difficult to reach and is worth a visit.

Mandrakion

This is where the port is located and is the main town on the island

When we arrived at the port it was a short walk to the town, where the impressive Monastery of the Panagia Spilianas which itself is situated within the walls of a 14th-century castle impressively overlooks the town.

Once we got into the town away from the centre it was full of narrow alleys lined with flower pots and charming cobblestone squares.

A lot of the buildings are made from volcanic rock and pumice stone. The island is well-known for pumice stone and many smaller islands located off Nisyros are quarried for pumice stone which is widely used in the beauty industry. The island gets substantial payments for the rights to quarry the pumice stone.

The houses in the town are very traditional. Mainly white or multi-coloured they are two storied with wooden balconies and wooden shutters.

Away from the beachfront the pace of life here is very slow. Although Mandrakion is the capital of the island it only has a population of 600 people and probably 1000 cats. Unlike a lot of other Greek islands, tourism is very low-key and the island still feels very traditional and relatively untouched by over-commercialism.

Nisyros Volcano

Unknown to me, there is an active volcano on Nisyros, but not erupting, fortunately.

It’s a very unique volcano 🌋 to visit, as it is the only active volcano in which you can walk anywhere in the world.

After scrambling down a rocky slope we soon found ourselves in an unnatural landscape. Holes of steaming bubbling mud dot the crater floor.

The sulphuric whiff will be immediately evident and another thing to be aware of is the heat that will seep through the soles of your shoes, so appropriate footwear is essential, best not to wear any flip-flops.

The centre of the crater is fenced off and there are some small fumaroles, rough openings with steam coming out of them.

Beneath the volcanic surface runs a hydrothermal system which results in hot springs gushing at some places around the Nisyros coast.

The visit was very enjoyable, having seen a few volcanoes previously around the world my visit here certainly didn’t disappoint. If you only had one place to visit while visiting Kos I would certainly suggest this one. There is a very nice cafe there and the prices were very reasonable.

Nikia

A traditional mountain village. Built on the edge of a crater, gazing at the Aegean Sea on one side and the craters of a volcano on the other side.

Because of the panoramic views of the crater from the village it has become something of a tourist hotspot. This once-sleepy mountain village is now a hub of activity.

The main square in Nikia is one of the most photographed spots on Niyros and is regarded as one of the most picturesque squares in the Aegean.

You will discover two tavernas in the square where you can sit down and have a drink and marvel at the wonderful location. It’s very traditional and is somewhat more secluded than the coast. Although it can get very busy.

At the square, you will find a beautiful church, The Church of the Assumption of The Virgin Mary, the church is unusual, as the majority of Greeks are Orthodox, not Catholic, however, some outlying islands were settled by the Venetians. This made sense to me now as Nikia did have the feel of an Italian rural village.

Walking around the village we found some interesting architecture. Whitewashed houses with single-tiled roofs brightly coloured doors and pebbled courtyards. Then in the blink of an eye, it was time to leave this remarkable village and get back to the port at Mandrikon.

I had never heard of Nisyros before my visit to Kos. It will not be an island I will forget in a hurry. I would have liked to have stayed longer but couldn’t miss the last ferry back to Kos.

Kalymnos Island

Kalymnos sits very close to the Turkish mainland and is known for its rocky natural landscape.

The island is part of the Dodecanese islands and boasts a long tradition of sponge diving in addition to its laid-back vibe and stunning natural scenery.

The island is rather remote and we arrived by boat, surprisingly there is an airport on the island. Kalymnos is a popular place for Greeks from the mainland who appreciate its tranquillity and its classy but simplistic vibe.

We arrived at the lovely little village of Vathy. It’s situated in the most fertile part of the island where you will find unsurprisingly the land has been cultivated and many cash crops grown particularly lemons.

In the village, we found a few restaurants all overlooking the village square with views of the harbour. It’s a great location to relax and enjoy a drink. You will not be rushed by the pace of life here it’s very relaxed.

It’s well worth a walk around the village we were able to see several sites close by including the Monastery of the Virgin, Castle ruins and early Byzantine churches.

The island is known for its herd of wild goats 🐐, we didn’t see any goats on the island however like lots of the Dodecanese islands there were lots of cats. Being cat lovers ourselves they seemed to have a sense of this and in fairness to the local people the cats are generally well-looked after.

Pserimos

Another Dodecanese Island Pserimos is situated between Kos and Kalymnos so an excellent stop for a spot of island hoppinging.

Don’t expect to find a bustling resort at the last census the island had a population of 81. Not surprisingly there is only one village on the island where you will find a couple of shops, tavernas and a few rooms to rent.

Although, you wouldn’t get much tranquillity in the summer months as it’s a popular excursion from nearby Kos. We visited in the beginning of October and it was more akin to a secluded island.

At the village of Avlaki, we found a fetching long stretch of golden sand and crystal-clear water. Undoubtedly worth a swim here and there are trees offering shade from the sun.

Looking for sun, sea and tranquillity? then we certainly came to the right place. Getting away from the crowds and busier resorts this is an excellent location for a calming time.

Looking for a place to eat and drink is very straightforward as the only establishments are all found at Avlaki on the beachfront. A terrific place for lunch or to enjoy a refreshing drink.

The island is very diminutive only 15 kilometres so don’t come expecting a lavish resort-style island. What you will find is a very relaxing authentic destination where the best thing to do is swim, relax and have a pleasurable lunch in a pleasant place. Just remember to get your ferry back to Civilization.